Stalling When Trimming Down?

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Dave R

If you want a foolproof option, buy and install an automatic charging relay when you add the second battery. I have a Blue Seas ACR on my boat and it's a high quality piece of gear. Blue Seas makes a great "Add a Battery" kit that would by ideal for your needs, IMO. See: https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-...caAhwLEALw_wcB

That kit has the switch and ACR in one package and will make installation a breeze.

If you need custom cables made for the installation, www.bestboatwire.com does great work for a great price and they sell real (UL1426) boat wire. See: https://www.bestboatwire.com/product...de-by-the-foot


The ACR will always prioritize the starting battery for charging. Once the starting battery is re-charged, it will combine the starting battery and the extra battery to allow the extra battery to be charged. It will automatically uncombine the batteries when charging is not occuring. The switch will give you the option to combine the batteries manually if you need to for emergency starting. Using this setup correctly will prevent having two dead batteries.

I find myself going in the wrong direction in terms of simplicity and cost. While I would love to do a second battery and all that jazz, what brought me here seems to be a simple issue of battery replacement (after what appears to be a reasonable lifetime).

I will most likely, then, simply replace the battery next spring.

I do want to do a couple more tests, though: another voltage test to see if it's dropped since my last test (and no use), a parasitic draw test, and a test while running (all as suggested above).

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[8gv]

Here’s my cave man parasitic draw test:

1) Verify with certainty there are ZERO gasoline fumes.

2) Confirm that every switch on the boat is off.

3) Disconnect one of the battery cables.

4) Provide darkness using time of day or some sort of shade.

5) Lightly touch the disconnected battery cable to the battery terminal.

6) Does it spark? If so, something is drawing power. If not, there could still be a tiny bit of draw.

[Descant]

OK. OK. Think has already said he would replace the battery next spring. I assume that means he carries a jump box for the next 3 months.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by Descant

OK. OK. Think has already said he would replace the battery next spring. I assume that means he carries a jump box for the next 3 months.

I already carry a jump pack, but I've not ever had to use it. The battery has started the boat every single time—including after it has stalled those couple times. In fact, I might not even have ever noticed it if I didn't "force it" the last couple of times. Knowing what it might be makes it easy to avoid these next, what, 7 weeks?

In fact, we've probably only got four or five more outings since school is about to begin and that'll be nuts. Sad face.



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[Blue Thunder]

Originally Posted by 8gv

Here’s my cave man parasitic draw test:

1) Verify with certainty there are ZERO gasoline fumes.

2) Confirm that every switch on the boat is off.

3) Disconnect one of the battery cables.

4) Provide darkness using time of day or some sort of shade.

5) Lightly touch the disconnected battery cable to the battery terminal.

6) Does it spark? If so, something is drawing power. If not, there could still be a tiny bit of draw.

You’re all good until step 5. If you really want to know if you have a draw and what that voltage draw is you should use the two test leads of a multi meter set on DC volts. Connect one to the battery and one to the disconnected cable. Any voltage above ten volts is a draw that will draw down the battery over a short time. If you have a 10-12V draw start removing the fuses in the fuse box one by one until the draw drops or goes away. That will steer you in the right direction.

BT

[8gv]

Originally Posted by Blue Thunder

You’re all good until step 5. If you really want to know if you have a draw and what that voltage draw is you should use the two test leads of a multi meter set on DC volts. Connect one to the battery and one to the disconnected cable. Any voltage above ten volts is a draw that will draw down the battery over a short time. If you have a 10-12V draw start removing the fuses in the fuse box one by one until the draw drops or goes away. That will steer you in the right direction.

BT

If course you are correct but cave men had no such test devices...

[Blue Thunder]

Originally Posted by 8gv

If course you are correct but cave men had no such test devices...

I thought he said he had a multi meter.....

[Flotnjr]

Grab the spare battery- might not fit into your battery box but who cares. Hook up your battery cables to that battery, exactly how they are now. If you have the same symptoms, then the battery is not your problem. If it seems fine, replace your battery. Once the engine is started, the alternator should be able to hold the load just fine- but a weak battery will at least draw down the battery, trim takes a lot of juice. Good idea having the jump pack on board!

[ApS]

Originally Posted by 8gv

Here’s my cave man parasitic draw test:

1) Verify with certainty there are ZERO gasoline fumes.

2) Confirm that every switch on the boat is off.

3) Disconnect one of the battery cables.

4) Provide darkness using time of day or some sort of shade.

5) Lightly touch the disconnected battery cable to the battery terminal.

6) Does it spark? If so, something is drawing power. If not, there could still be a tiny bit of draw.

Wait 'til dark: use a spare bulb.

Glow—however slight—indicates parasitic draw.