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#1 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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thats what I was thinking, so as soon as the engine died, I grounded out the coil and cranked the engine. Spark came out perfect. And i did this within 5 seconds after it died, so it should still be hot...I was hoping I wasn't getting spark, but I was
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#2 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Portsmouth. RI
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There's Spark..and then there is SPARK. NB
PS: What year is your engine..?? just wonderin.. PPS: You said you grounded out the coil..does that mean you took the coil exit (center) WIRE and "touched" it to the block to see a spark...?? If thats the case..leave a sparkplug connected to a cylinder coil wire and ground the spark plug base.. to the block. Does the PLUG Arc..?? |
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#3 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Central MA-Gilford
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I had same senario, however, I had a 4.3L Merc.....
Engine would run fine for 15-20 minutes then cough and stall.... After several trips to marina, and many dollars spent for things I didn't need performed, I found the underlying culprit either from NoBozo, DaveR, Ishoot308, or SIKSUKR can't remember? Lot's of experience in this group for sure ! But the issue was the coil ! As NoBozo described so correctly quote.., ' Faulty ignition coils can overheat and short out internally....Then recover when they cool off'. This is 'exactly' what was happening. Marina said it was gas related (ethanol), but after draining the tank, then filling with fresh gas, didn't resolve the issue. They then did a carb rebuild, again, didn't resolve the issue $$$. After feedback from this Foum the common denominator was 'coil issue' ! I ordered a new coil for $35. and installed myself in about 30 min. Problem solved ! And the boat was running like a race horse again. So, I still think you have a spark issue, as a result of a bad coil. Oh, one last word, make sure you use a marina with a good reputation, and not just 'parts changers', who try this and that, as a process of elimination to resolve the issue.... Lessons learned ! Bigdog |
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#4 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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Yes. I took of the middle plug of the distributor and went to frame. Seems like a good spark. I compared to the spark when it was running, and seemed to be the same. White/yellow look? Not blue... I called thurstons, and they don't have one. neither does NAPA. I will try some other places in the morning and try replacing myself. The coil I got a few months ago from the auto parts store. If that doesn't work, I will call someone in. I don't know what else to do.. thanks for ALL your information. I'll keep you posted.
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#5 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Portsmouth. RI
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EDIT: I don't think NAPA will do it this time. Take a plug out of the cylinder ON the wire...and ground the base..crank it over....SPARK...?? |
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#6 |
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Location: Central MA-Gilford
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Hey...
I usually NEVER endorse any marine parts suppliers, but have great luck with the following: Go2marine: (Here's a coil for under $30, Thuderbolt for Merc, just an example) http://www.go2marine.com/product/834...l-18-5438.html Also have used: Marine Engine: http://www.marineengine.com/ Marine Parts Plus: http://www.marinepartsplus.com/aboutus.html All with very competitive prices, good customer service, and fast delivery. Good luck ! Bigdog |
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#8 |
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Join Date: Jul 2004
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Make sure the ballast resistor is in place. Some people remove them thinking they will get a better spark. This makes the coil run too hot. To verify, measure the voltage at the coil. You should have around 9 volts (if memory serves) at the coil + lead when the engine is running.You don't want 12 or more volts at the coil, it's not designed for that much voltage.
Check to see if you have an exhaust leak. This can fill the engine compartment with CO (carbon monoxide) after awhile and that does support combustion like O2 (oxygen). Once you open the hatch to troubleshoot, you let fresh air in and the engine will run fine again. Try running with the engine hatch or cover open and see if it stays running. |
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#9 |
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Couple of other things to check:
If the engine has points, replace the condensor. Verify that the battery has good coennections at the battery and the engine. A loose connection can cause this problem. Verify that the fuel line (especially the metal portion) does not contact the engine anywhere except at the pump and carburetor. Replace the fuel filter in the carburetor, if equipped. |
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#10 |
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While you have the engine hatch open, check the wiring on the coil.
On the + side, you should only have the purple resistor wire, and a purple/yellow from the starter. On the - side, you should have a gray wire for the tach, and a black wire from the distributor. The OEM harness a white/green wire is spliced into the gray wire and goes to the shift interrupt switch. |
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#11 |
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Join Date: Jun 2012
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update. got another coil today from Fays, same problem
new batt this year with all new wiring new starter new solenoid new fuel/water filter yesterday fuel additive new wires, plugs, condenser, points, cap/rotor this year Have done all troublshooting with hatch open. new 130 T-stat last week new hoses, water pump rebuild new gimbal, U-joint, gaskets, etc lower unit started it up right away this morning, ran fine for 10 mins, then shut off. tank vent tube clear. I had it on a lake last friday, and it lasted for about 45 mins pulling kids on tube. Now it won't last more than 10 minutes. |
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#12 | |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Portsmouth. RI
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#13 |
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Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Seacoast Maine
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You really need to find out which it is, Fuel or electrical otherwise you will just be replacing good parts for a lot of $$ with no solution.
Take it out again with a can of carb cleaner or ether (be real carefull and keep fire extingisher handy), with engine hatch open run it till it stalls then give it a shot of carb cleaner or ether if it doesn't start you have an electrical problem. If it is electrical you need to trace the power from the coil backwards to the ignition. I would bet on a older boat that if it's electrical it is corrosion or bad connection (assuming coil is good since you have already replaced it). If it's fuel has the tank been drained, this ethanol crap has really caused a lot of similar problems on older boats. When was the last time the boat was used or run for a longer period of time, has it been sitting long? Just one man's opinion |
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#14 |
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Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Moultonborough, NH
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If it's fuel related it could be the check valve fitting on the tank(easy fix). Assuming you say clear hose on vent to verify it doesn't have a low spot and fuel accumulated causing a vent issue. Open the fuel filler cap and then try it immediately after it quits.
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#15 |
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UPDATE. I was a little wrong with what I thought I did. I didn't use an external tank until this morning. I found the problem. Something was clogging the fuel pick-up in the tank. The anti-syphon seemed fine, but I pulled out the tube from the tank ( something fell off and stayed in the tank). Maybe it was some sort of filter/screen, that was clogged. Got a new fuel pickup at Fay's, cleaned anti-syphon and worked perfect all day. On a sad not, my little 89' larson 170 is too small for this lake
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#16 |
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Location: Weirs Beach
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You can park at the Weirs town docks..... no fee and definitely no problem tonight. No need to call ahead.
On another note.... 8 people in a 17' boat! WOW!!!
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The only way to eliminate ignorant behavior is through education. You can't fix stupid. |
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#17 |
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yes. 6 of them kids. but even so, it was a struggle. the boat can do it, but the waves kill us. can't really get on plane with waves that big. just hoping to find some places to pull kids on tube for a couple hours a day. trying to stay close to the island..
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#18 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Portsmouth. RI
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The Following User Says Thank You to NoBozo For This Useful Post: | ||
jt3kids (07-02-2012) |
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#19 |
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Hey NB. why up the T-stat to 165?. just curious. original equipment is 130. thanks, Jim
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#20 | |
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Sorry to say, you picked pretty much the worst possible place on the lake to vacation with a 17 foot boat. There's an awful lot of boat traffic and wake chop where you are. If you were staying in Moultonborough Bay, you'd be much happier with the boat, I suspect. |
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#21 |
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Portsmouth. RI
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OK: I looked it up. 1990 was the first year Merc started rating horsepower at the prop. Your motor should be 130 HP with an Alpha 1 with a gear ratio of 1.98:1.
Clymer has a nice repair manual for the 1986-1994 Mercruiser Sterndrive. I got mine at West Marine. ![]() |
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