Boat Starter problem

[upthesaukee]

a bolt remover has left hand threads on it. You drill a hole into the broken bolt, screw in the bolt remover and when it is tight, use a wrench to back out the broken bolt.
I am no mechanic, but I have used one . First and foremost, be careful drilling the right sized hole, and then take your time, using steady pressure to back out the bolt.

Others may have another suggestion.

[ApS]

Originally Posted by upthesaukee

"...Others may have another suggestion..."

To assist in removal, I'd suggest drilling completely through the bolt, then squirting WD-40® or CRC-5/6 corrosion inhibitor into the "unseen" end of the bolt.

I've recently used (and forgotten the name of ) a new product which is reputed to be much better than the above—and much reknowned around ocean environments.

Use a broken bolt extractor of top quality—one made in the USA plus a new "cobalt" drill bit. (I love spending other people's money —it's "The American-Way" ).

Start with a small centered hole, then drill to the size recommended for the extractor: generally speaking, the largest hole possible weakens the broken bolt for easier removal. You only get to do this once, and you don't want a cheap (but hardened-steel ) extractor broken off in the broken bolt!

If the bolt appears to resist removal with an extractor—and space allows—the hole can be drilled to a larger size than the original and a "threaded-insert" installed. This gets complicated when a broken extractor is in the center of the repair. Use of a "high heat" flame can help break down any "Lock-Tight" product that may have been used on the bolt previously.

There are other "tricks" in the case of a broken bolt, but first assume the bolt is rusted in place. Be patient with the rust dissolvers, maybe use each dissolver you can find—one after the other.

Good luck with this project.

[Seeker]

Sounds like you know how to get the bolt out but just can't reach it.

I agree not to stack washers, just 1 lock washer. Just buy the correct length bolt. If the best you can do is 1/2" too long just cut it and clean up the end threads with a die.

[NoBozo]

OK: I think I understand what's going on now. You have a theaded hole in the back of the bell housing where the original Bolt screwed in. So the bolt broke off IN the hole but left some usable threads in the hole. Is that correct ?.

If the depth of the theaded hole that still has usable threads is AS Deep as the diameter of the old bolt..or deeper, that is sufficient. I suggest you do not replace the bolt with an identacal bolt..or try to shorten one to snug up tight because that is too tedious and Iffy.

Try this. Go to NAPA and get a STUD to replace the original bolt configuration. Studs have a "Course" thread on one end, which will screw into the hole. The other end of a stud is usually a "Fine" thread". Get a Nut and a split washer to fit the fine thread. If you have more than the diameter in depth..use the split washer..if not, skip the washer.

Use Loctite #271 (Red) on the Course threads ONLY. Screw it in tight with a pair of plyers or better yet a Mini "Pipe Wrench". I have one with a 6 inch handle that it perfect for screwing or removing Studs or broken off bolts.

Loctite #271 is nearly permanent and requires Heat (Bernzamatic Torch) to remove. Not a problem down the road because presumably the engine will be out of the boat at that point.

If I've misinterpretted the problem here..then disregard all of the above. NB

[XCR-700]

Originally Posted by NoBozo

OK: I think I understand what's going on now. You have a theaded hole in the back of the bell housing where the original Bolt screwed in. So the bolt broke off IN the hole but left some usable threads in the hole. Is that correct ?.

If the depth of the theaded hole that still has usable threads is AS Deep as the diameter of the old bolt..or deeper, that is sufficient. I suggest you do not replace the bolt with an identacal bolt..or try to shorten one to snug up tight because that is too tedious and Iffy.

Try this. Go to NAPA and get a STUD to replace the original bolt configuration. Studs have a "Course" thread on one end, which will screw into the hole. The other end of a stud is usually a "Fine" thread". Get a Nut and a split washer to fit the fine thread. If you have more than the diameter in depth..use the split washer..if not, skip the washer.

Use Loctite #271 (Red) on the Course threads ONLY. Screw it in tight with a pair of plyers or better yet a Mini "Pipe Wrench". I have one with a 6 inch handle that it perfect for screwing or removing Studs or broken off bolts.

Loctite #271 is nearly permanent and requires Heat (Bernzamatic Torch) to remove. Not a problem down the road because presumably the engine will be out of the boat at that point.

If I've misinterpretted the problem here..then disregard all of the above. NB

Having worked in both the automotive industry and at a machine shop, I agree with NoBozo's recommendation.

If you are not going to pull the engine to fix it, then this is your best option.

Clean the threads with a good solvent and used the loctite and let it dry the full recommended time.

This option will allow you to add a washer if needed to get the started properly tightened.

Its not an ideal solution, but should get you going.

As a aside, you were very lucky that you didnt have an explosion given the loose wires and the location of the starter!

Arcing wires in the bilge area is an accident waiting to happen.

This is why you always want to run your bilge blower before starting your engine!!!

Good Luck.

[Winnipesaukee]

I'm all for doing a top notch repair job, but in this case, I would just use washers, then a split lock washer, and red threadlocker on the bolt. That will never come off.

Then it will be the next owner's issue.

But by the time anything in the starter motor needs replacement again, the powertrain will have other issues that will require pulling the engine, so there really would be no harm done.

If it makes you feel any better, I had to pull the engine, disassemble it and split the engine case to get to the starter clutch in my 1986 Kawasaki... That was a great week I'd like to forget...

[Dave R]

Originally Posted by Winnipesaukee

If it makes you feel any better, I had to pull the engine, disassemble it and split the engine case to get to the starter clutch in my 1986 Kawasaki... That was a great week I'd like to forget...

What model?

[Winnipesaukee]

It's a GPz900. Kind of a summertime restoration project.

This mechanic loves to fix things. I recently repaired my Bravo 3 with a rebuilt driveshaft housing that I got on craigslist for $495. Dealer would get $3000+ for the same repair. I also recently repaired a failed hydrostatic tractor transmission for $130 in parts. Dealer said it was not repairable and needed to be replaced for $600 + labor.

Good stuff. You get a really satisfying feeling knowing you saved that kind of money.....once you finish, of course.

OP, how is the project going?

[Dave R]

Originally Posted by Winnipesaukee

It's a GPz900. Kind of a summertime restoration project.

I have a lot of experience with those first generation Ninja engines. Lemme know if you need any advice. I know mine need intake valves at 60,000 miles. They are pretty easy to change and since they were so soft, the seats did not need grinding.

[Winnipesaukee]

Hey thanks for the offer. Mine has about 25k on the clock. Just adjusted the valve clearances and all 4 cylinders show good compression. *fingers crossed*

[Dave R]

Originally Posted by Winnipesaukee

Hey thanks for the offer. Mine has about 25k on the clock. Just adjusted the valve clearances and all 4 cylinders show good compression. *fingers crossed*

It's easy to tell if they need to be changed, when the screw part of the screw and locknut adjusters recedes into the nut, you are out of adjustment and need new valves. One thing that's really critical on those engine is to make sure both valves in each pair have exactly the same lash, otherwise the forked rocekr puts point stresses on the cam face and the cam can pit.