Engine stalling problem

Jersey Joe · 08-05-2009, 11:27 AM

Nobozo

I did not know about the Anti-Siphon valve either, until a mechanic told me to check it.

Apparently, what it does is prevents the tank from emptying inside your hull if you should develop a leak (at least what he told me). It is a 1 - way valve from the tank to the vent. If fuel runs out of the tank too fast, the valve will close and create a vacum in the tank. Mine was all crudded up with an off white crusty buildup, probably from ethanol.

The Mechanic I was working with told me that this would make sense for my problem - because the boat will run fine at idle, but when you push the throttle down, once you burn off the fuel in the carb, you can't pump enough fuel back into the carb to keep it running above an idle becuase the valve creates a vacum lock in the tank. In my instance, if you let the boat sit for a half hour - it will run fine again - which would make sense as air gets back into the tank to break the vacum.

I am no expert - just adding what limited knowledge I have to help a fellow boater.

Hey BigDog - I carry a wrench that fits my drainplug on the boat at all times, much easier and quieter than the C-4

6meter · 08-05-2009, 04:50 PM

Nobozo, I would say that you're right on. But I'll add a thought on a couple of things on the list. The firing order should be right, the problem was there before the plugs were changed. Will the ethanhol eat the diaphram in a mechanical fuel pump? I believe Bigdog's boat is a '96 so it could have an electric fuel pump. I borrowed my brothers coil to try 2 years ago. It fixed it. Ran great last year. Dies out this year. So there is interest in this topic for me. I'll admit the same about an anti siphon valve. Did they use them in '86? A distributor module will act just like running out of gas. Will stay tuned.

NoBozo · 08-05-2009, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jersey Joe

Nobozo

I did not know about the Anti-Siphon valve either, until a mechanic told me to check it.

Apparently, what it does is prevents the tank from emptying inside your hull if you should develop a leak (at least what he told me). It is a 1 - way valve from the tank to the vent. If fuel runs out of the tank too fast, the valve will close and create a vacum in the tank. Mine was all crudded up with an off white crusty buildup, probably from ethanol.

The Mechanic I was working with told me that this would make sense for my problem - because the boat will run fine at idle, but when you push the throttle down, once you burn off the fuel in the carb, you can't pump enough fuel back into the carb to keep it running above an idle becuase the valve creates a vacum lock in the tank. In my instance, if you let the boat sit for a half hour - it will run fine again - which would make sense as air gets back into the tank to break the vacum.

I am no expert - just adding what limited knowledge I have to help a fellow boater.

Hey BigDog - I carry a wrench that fits my drainplug on the boat at all times, much easier and quieter than the C-4

------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks Joe for your response. It got me to thinking and got me off my butt to do some Googling and here is what I found that makes sense to me:

Question: My fuel tank is higher than my engine. Do I need an anti-siphon valve? There is a small round valve installed just above the tank where the fuel line leaves the tank. Could this be some sort of anti-siphon valve?

Answer: The valve to which you are referring is probably a small spring-loaded one-way check valve. The spring-loading on the valve is sufficient to prevent fuel from passing through it statically through a siphon (usually no more than 2 or 3 psi), but low enough so that the fuel pump can pull fuel through its mechanism while the engine is running.

These check valves will sometimes create a problem with electric pumps, since they (electric pumps) are less forgiving of even slight increases in suction head than are mechanical pumps.

If there is a wire connected to the valve on your boat, it is probably an electric solenoid valve that spring-loads closed whenever the ignition switch is turned off, and power is removed from the valve. These valves have the advantage of adding virtually no head loss to the suction side of the fuel pump, but they are vulnerable to malfunction, since they rely on electrical energy to hold them open.

It is not at all clear to us that either of these valves is actually required by the Coast Guard. In our experience, most people rely on a manual valve to prevent fuel from passing from their fuel tanks when the boat is left unattended. - Updated: January 5, 2004
-------------------------------------------------------
My take (NB): In Short; This valve is a TWO STAGE valve allowing gas to be Sucked through it by the fuel pump, but will NOT allow fuel to "Siphon" out "on it's own".

Thanks again Joe for a teachable moment. I learn something new every day.

bigdog · 08-05-2009, 08:57 PM

Jersey Joe,
Your explanation describes my engine symptoms exactly ! However the marine tech said he checked the A.S.V today and it appears to be working as it should and is not obstructed. I did not examine myslef, so I cannot confirm.

Also love your comment and humor about keeping a wrench that fits my drainplug, rather than my C-4 alternative ! What can I say, I like things that go BANG !

NoBozo,
Your discertation about the A.S.V. was very accurately described perfectly !
Thanks for educating the rest of us who may not understand how this part functions.

bigdog · 08-05-2009, 09:02 PM

Well… here’s the most recent update….

At the advice of my Marine mechanics, they replaced my Distributor Cap, Rotor, and checked the ignition Timing. BTW, the Cap & Rotor looked almost ‘new’, with no signs of corrosions whatsoever. Timing was right on !

Mechanic said he removed Anti-Siphon Valve and inspected and that it looked good, and ball inside was not sticking. I guess I have to believe him, but who know if he wasn’t just giving me lip service? I did look at the ASV fitting and it may have been removed.

They took the boat to a small lake nearby the shop to give it a in-water test. Within a short amount of time as they gave full throttle, the engine began to cough, backfire and finally stall. There they were these 2 guys in the middle of the lake with the boat stalled. I wished I could have seen the look on their faces ! HA !

After stalling, one mechanic checked the Carb bowl and it was totally empty of gas. After a few minutes, they were able to restart the boat, and noticed that the Carb bowl refilled with gas. They ran at below wake speed and made it back to the ramp.

They are now convinced that the problem is related to the ‘electric fuel pump’. And for another $350, would order the part, install, and I’d be in business. Not wanting these two geniuses to work on my boat another minute, I picked up the boat and brought home this morning. I’m out more money for unnecessary repairs, and a boat which is still not working, and just before vacation !

I now do believe the problem could be in fact fuel related, whether it is the ‘electric fuel pump’ or not remains to be seen. The only way to determine if the fuel pump is defective would be to perform a pressure check. Apparently, the mechanics could not do a pressure test because their pressure gauge they have starts reading at 5lbs. I believe the electric fuel pump pressure puts out between 3-5lbs. So short of buying and installing a new fuel pump to test this theory, I will have to wait to take to a marine shop which can perform this test with the correct equipment.

Saturday morning I begin my 1 wk vacation in Meredith, can’t wait ! I will be towing my boat up to the lake for the week, and hopefully diagnose during this time. One way or another, I will be using my boat this vacation, even if it means sitting in my boat, anchored just off-shore ! Wave on your way by !

Thanks for everyone’s feedback. This has been a great Forum Thread and provided me a wealth of information. I know a lot more now than when I began this quest. Lessons learned !

Bigdog

SIKSUKR · 08-05-2009, 10:12 PM

Oh BD I feel for you.I also know that somehow you will get this resolved for or during your vaca.Keep your chin up.It sounds like your on the right track with the fuel issue.

XCR-700 · 08-05-2009, 10:58 PM

So sorry, sounds like you have been the victim of lousy mechanics and an unethical business.

I can only tell you what I would do from this point.

First, buy the coil, its very inexpensive and easy to install and will eliminate it from your list.

Next, run the boat with the gas cap off, that way there is no question about the vent, or valve, or anything on that end.

If it still doesn’t run, disconnect the fuel line from the main tank and plug it, and then get your hands on a portable tank, again its cheap and will flat out eliminate any concern about kinked lines, blocked pickups, or anything to do with the tank.

At this point its either going to run or your going to know your down to fuel pump, or distributor module and/or ignition module.

So if your still chasing it, you will again need to run it until it stops and determine if its actually “running dry” or loosing ignition.

The “running dry” theory should very easy to determine, add a simple fuel pressure gauge before the carb, you will know immediately if there is no fuel pressure, you have a bad pump.

If there is pressure, then I’m going to rule out the carb as if it ever runs well, but only acts up when hot, you probably back to an ignition problem, so if it’s a Mercruiser, I would pop for distributor module, I’ve had several die on me and its my understanding that its one of the most commonly sold parts.

My money (sorry - frappe) is still on the coil, but I reserve the right to switch to the distributor module at any time,,,

Make a plan, keep it simple, don’t go looking for things that are not likely problems before eliminating the ones that are likely, and stick to the plan and you will get it resolved.

Keep us posted.

VitaBene · 08-06-2009, 07:18 AM

I hope you have a great vacation week boating!

bigdog · 08-06-2009, 10:15 PM

Just to provide this Forum THread with some more feedback...

Today I pulled the fuel vent host off the gas tank. I was able blow through that end of hose Volumes of air, which came out the back ot the boat.

No visible signs of obstruction, or any debris came out of the hose.
This eleimiates this as the problem.

The list is getting shoter...
If it's fuel related which I suspect, because the Carb bowl is dry after stalling,
the problem can only be the 'Electric fuel pump'. The Anti-Siphon valve was checked and was toi be found OK. Not sure what else it could be if fuel related?

Don't see how an ignition probllem could cause the lack of fuel to the Carb?

Well, any further diagnosis will have to wait until I arrive in Meredith this w/e.

Airwaves · 08-06-2009, 10:30 PM

You may have posted this already, but Where did you take your boat for repair????

The basics you have covered, Fuel, oxygen and spark.

Reading your post it is fuel starved. Why? Good question.

Before I'd spend much more money try this if you can. Attach another fuel source to your engine (portable) and see what happens.

I don't know if that's practicle on not but if you do it and it runs great then it might be your fuel pump? If it still does the same thing then the fuel pump probably isn't the answer.

Good luck and let us know.

CL 240 LS · 08-07-2009, 07:29 AM

Hi Bigdog
I reread the thread on gas tank, http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/...ead.php?t=7494

You said you drained most of the gas but the bottom 5 gallons remained. Are you sure there is no debris in there? Did you located and check the pickup tube and was there a screen on it? Maybe worth looking at again no matter how big of a pain.

bigdog · 08-07-2009, 09:03 AM

Hi again....

I will respond to each of the recent Posts in order:

Airwaves
Alternative fuel source test, have not done yet. May be the next test I'll perform this w/e when I arrive in Meredith for vacation. Certainly would prove
conclusively if this is fuel related, and rule out ignition issue.

Acres per Second
Have not changed the fuel line. The diaphram in the fuel pump cannot be repaired, it is a sealed unit. I think they make it that way so you have to buy new !

CL 240 LS
I personally did not check the pickup tube, but my marine tech, recently removed checked the Anti-Siphon valve, which he said was working perfectly fine, and the ball inside ASV was moving freely in the fitting as it should.
BTW, what is 'CL 240 LS' a Crownline ? If so you're one lucky guy !

CL 240 LS · 08-07-2009, 01:28 PM

That I am!

Hope you get up and running soon. Try finding a portable tank and hooking it up to eliminate as much of the fuel line components as possible. Maybe a local marina has such a setup that they can try?

Jersey Joe · 08-11-2009, 09:39 AM

OK, I have to share this with you folks, because it is almost unbelievable.

First off, I "think" "hope" that my stalling problem is fixed. We went to fireworks in Alton Bay Saturday Night, went to Weirs Beach Sunday, and went to Center Harbor, and then to Meredith for Dinner Yesterday, without a problem ! ! So, bigdog, assuming I am fixed, it was the ASV, Coil, Fuel Line from Tank to Engine, or Vent Line.

Now for the story....

When going to fuel up yesterday, I want to pour my StarTron into the tank. Did not realize the the little Plastic/Paper Seal thing under the cap was stuck on the top of the bottle. As I tipped the bottle to pour it into the tank, you guessed it, the little disc went happily into the fill hole!!! What are the chances ? So, I went over (I was at West Alton Marina) to the mechanic and talked with him. He told me, you have to get it out because it could plug up your intake and ....make the boat stall.....

So, we have an appointment tomorrow morning and he is going to try to fish it out of the tank through the sending unit acccess hole.

Just wanted to share what I hope is the fix, and the simply unbelievable story.

JJ

PS - Good

Fishy Cover · 08-11-2009, 01:51 PM

I had the same problem with a Mercruiser 3.7. After a mechanic changed the points, rotor, condenser and coil it ran in the driveway (with earmuffs) but stalled out when I accelerated on the lake. Next I changed the fuel filter and dumped the contents into a clear container and it was 90% water. So I drained the tank thru the hose attached to the fuel pick-up and there was some water but not as much as I expected. I also found that the hose from the fuel pump to the fuel filter had a kink in it that may have restricted fuel flow so I replaced it. I know that there could be a small amount of water in the bottom of the tank that the pick-up did not reach so I poured in two bottles of drygas and 1 bottle of Seafoam and then added 10 gals of fresh gas.

It started in 2 seconds and ran well on the lake at varying speeds from idle to 4000 RPM for the first hour and then I took a prospective buyer out for a second hour: still no problems. Hurray!

The buyer trailered it to his lake last Sunday and added about 15 gals of fresh gas along the way.

The buyer called me on Monday to tell me that he had been out for about 3 hours the engine ran well but he was now in the middle of his lake and the engine had stalled and would not start.

Although it was an as-is sale I feel badly about it. It does not seem that he would be out of gas-- combined we put in 25 gals and ran the boat 2 hrs here and 3 hrs there. Is this engine that thirsty?

If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.

EZ-Pass · 08-11-2009, 03:02 PM

It is starting to sound as if you had better join the famous clunker reward program with a boat.

LIforrelaxin · 08-11-2009, 04:24 PM

Big Dog,

As it is appearent you have been having the work done to your boat.... may I suggest Goodhue Marine in Moultonboro.... I have been using Brett and the boys for several years..... If you are having an issue with fuel getting to the carborator they will figure out why.....

6meter · 08-18-2009, 03:51 PM

OK Bigdog, what are the results? Did it run all week? What did you replace?

ApS · 08-07-2009, 06:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdog

"...The list is getting shorter..."

It really is, and I applaud your efforts to "DIY".

I haven't read where you've changed the fuel line from the pump to the carburetor. I've had even a braided stainless steel brake line "squish itself shut"! (And a brake pedal's pressure is some pressure to overcome.

)

Electric fuel pumps in the range of 3-5 psi can be tested by using your thumb to halt its pressure. They should also put out enough pressure to squirt gas strongly as you release your thumb. At only 3-5 psi, I'd expect a simple gravity-feed from an alternative tank would run your engine—even under a load.

The diaphragm inside can develop a leak. It may be a relatively easy fix, and a kit may be available from NAPA stores. You could even make a decent diaphragm by cutting one out of a suitable material, like material from a "close-enough" repair kit. How's that for "DIY"?

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigdog

"...One way or another, I will be using my boat this vacation, even if it means sitting in my boat..."

)

Hey, I believe we have the makings of a "lake sailor" here!

08-05-2009, 08:57 PM	#4
bigdog Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Central MA-Gilford Posts: 1,459 Thanks: 357 Thanked 126 Times in 100 Posts	Engine Stalling Jersey Joe, Your explanation describes my engine symptoms exactly ! However the marine tech said he checked the A.S.V today and it appears to be working as it should and is not obstructed. I did not examine myslef, so I cannot confirm. Also love your comment and humor about keeping a wrench that fits my drainplug, rather than my C-4 alternative ! What can I say, I like things that go BANG ! NoBozo, Your discertation about the A.S.V. was very accurately described perfectly ! Thanks for educating the rest of us who may not understand how this part functions.

08-05-2009, 09:02 PM	#5
bigdog Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Central MA-Gilford Posts: 1,459 Thanks: 357 Thanked 126 Times in 100 Posts	Engine stalling Well… here’s the most recent update…. At the advice of my Marine mechanics, they replaced my Distributor Cap, Rotor, and checked the ignition Timing. BTW, the Cap & Rotor looked almost ‘new’, with no signs of corrosions whatsoever. Timing was right on ! Mechanic said he removed Anti-Siphon Valve and inspected and that it looked good, and ball inside was not sticking. I guess I have to believe him, but who know if he wasn’t just giving me lip service? I did look at the ASV fitting and it may have been removed. They took the boat to a small lake nearby the shop to give it a in-water test. Within a short amount of time as they gave full throttle, the engine began to cough, backfire and finally stall. There they were these 2 guys in the middle of the lake with the boat stalled. I wished I could have seen the look on their faces ! HA ! After stalling, one mechanic checked the Carb bowl and it was totally empty of gas. After a few minutes, they were able to restart the boat, and noticed that the Carb bowl refilled with gas. They ran at below wake speed and made it back to the ramp. They are now convinced that the problem is related to the ‘electric fuel pump’. And for another $350, would order the part, install, and I’d be in business. Not wanting these two geniuses to work on my boat another minute, I picked up the boat and brought home this morning. I’m out more money for unnecessary repairs, and a boat which is still not working, and just before vacation ! I now do believe the problem could be in fact fuel related, whether it is the ‘electric fuel pump’ or not remains to be seen. The only way to determine if the fuel pump is defective would be to perform a pressure check. Apparently, the mechanics could not do a pressure test because their pressure gauge they have starts reading at 5lbs. I believe the electric fuel pump pressure puts out between 3-5lbs. So short of buying and installing a new fuel pump to test this theory, I will have to wait to take to a marine shop which can perform this test with the correct equipment. Saturday morning I begin my 1 wk vacation in Meredith, can’t wait ! I will be towing my boat up to the lake for the week, and hopefully diagnose during this time. One way or another, I will be using my boat this vacation, even if it means sitting in my boat, anchored just off-shore ! Wave on your way by ! Thanks for everyone’s feedback. This has been a great Forum Thread and provided me a wealth of information. I know a lot more now than when I began this quest. Lessons learned ! Bigdog

08-05-2009, 10:12 PM	#6
SIKSUKR Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Posts: 5,075 Thanks: 215 Thanked 903 Times in 509 Posts	Oh BD I feel for you.I also know that somehow you will get this resolved for or during your vaca.Keep your chin up.It sounds like your on the right track with the fuel issue. __________________ SIKSUKR

08-05-2009, 10:58 PM	#7
XCR-700 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: MA Posts: 1,342 Thanks: 753 Thanked 539 Times in 314 Posts	$350 sounds crazy for a fuel pump,,, So sorry, sounds like you have been the victim of lousy mechanics and an unethical business. I can only tell you what I would do from this point. First, buy the coil, its very inexpensive and easy to install and will eliminate it from your list. Next, run the boat with the gas cap off, that way there is no question about the vent, or valve, or anything on that end. If it still doesn’t run, disconnect the fuel line from the main tank and plug it, and then get your hands on a portable tank, again its cheap and will flat out eliminate any concern about kinked lines, blocked pickups, or anything to do with the tank. At this point its either going to run or your going to know your down to fuel pump, or distributor module and/or ignition module. So if your still chasing it, you will again need to run it until it stops and determine if its actually “running dry” or loosing ignition. The “running dry” theory should very easy to determine, add a simple fuel pressure gauge before the carb, you will know immediately if there is no fuel pressure, you have a bad pump. If there is pressure, then I’m going to rule out the carb as if it ever runs well, but only acts up when hot, you probably back to an ignition problem, so if it’s a Mercruiser, I would pop for distributor module, I’ve had several die on me and its my understanding that its one of the most commonly sold parts. My money (sorry - frappe) is still on the coil, but I reserve the right to switch to the distributor module at any time,,, Make a plan, keep it simple, don’t go looking for things that are not likely problems before eliminating the ones that are likely, and stick to the plan and you will get it resolved. Keep us posted.

08-06-2009, 07:18 AM	#8
VitaBene Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Moultonborough Posts: 3,644 Thanks: 1,718 Thanked 1,662 Times in 861 Posts	Best of Luck BD I hope you have a great vacation week boating!

08-05-2009, 11:27 AM	#1
Jersey Joe Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Nobozo I did not know about the Anti-Siphon valve either, until a mechanic told me to check it. Apparently, what it does is prevents the tank from emptying inside your hull if you should develop a leak (at least what he told me). It is a 1 - way valve from the tank to the vent. If fuel runs out of the tank too fast, the valve will close and create a vacum in the tank. Mine was all crudded up with an off white crusty buildup, probably from ethanol. The Mechanic I was working with told me that this would make sense for my problem - because the boat will run fine at idle, but when you push the throttle down, once you burn off the fuel in the carb, you can't pump enough fuel back into the carb to keep it running above an idle becuase the valve creates a vacum lock in the tank. In my instance, if you let the boat sit for a half hour - it will run fine again - which would make sense as air gets back into the tank to break the vacum. I am no expert - just adding what limited knowledge I have to help a fellow boater. Hey BigDog - I carry a wrench that fits my drainplug on the boat at all times, much easier and quieter than the C-4

08-05-2009, 04:50 PM	#2
6meter Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 27 Thanks: 2 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Nobozo, I would say that you're right on. But I'll add a thought on a couple of things on the list. The firing order should be right, the problem was there before the plugs were changed. Will the ethanhol eat the diaphram in a mechanical fuel pump? I believe Bigdog's boat is a '96 so it could have an electric fuel pump. I borrowed my brothers coil to try 2 years ago. It fixed it. Ran great last year. Dies out this year. So there is interest in this topic for me. I'll admit the same about an anti siphon valve. Did they use them in '86? A distributor module will act just like running out of gas. Will stay tuned.

The Following User Says Thank You to VitaBene For This Useful Post:
bigdog (08-06-2009)

08-06-2009, 10:15 PM	#9
bigdog Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Central MA-Gilford Posts: 1,459 Thanks: 357 Thanked 126 Times in 100 Posts	Engine stalling problem Just to provide this Forum THread with some more feedback... Today I pulled the fuel vent host off the gas tank. I was able blow through that end of hose Volumes of air, which came out the back ot the boat. No visible signs of obstruction, or any debris came out of the hose. This eleimiates this as the problem. The list is getting shoter... If it's fuel related which I suspect, because the Carb bowl is dry after stalling, the problem can only be the 'Electric fuel pump'. The Anti-Siphon valve was checked and was toi be found OK. Not sure what else it could be if fuel related? Don't see how an ignition probllem could cause the lack of fuel to the Carb? Well, any further diagnosis will have to wait until I arrive in Meredith this w/e.

08-06-2009, 10:30 PM	#10
Airwaves Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: I'm right here! Posts: 1,153 Thanks: 9 Thanked 102 Times in 37 Posts	You may have posted this already, but Where did you take your boat for repair???? The basics you have covered, Fuel, oxygen and spark. Reading your post it is fuel starved. Why? Good question. Before I'd spend much more money try this if you can. Attach another fuel source to your engine (portable) and see what happens. I don't know if that's practicle on not but if you do it and it runs great then it might be your fuel pump? If it still does the same thing then the fuel pump probably isn't the answer. Good luck and let us know.

08-07-2009, 07:29 AM	#11
CL 240 LS Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 98 Thanks: 25 Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts	Gas Tank ? Hi Bigdog I reread the thread on gas tank, http://www.winnipesaukee.com/forums/...ead.php?t=7494 You said you drained most of the gas but the bottom 5 gallons remained. Are you sure there is no debris in there? Did you located and check the pickup tube and was there a screen on it? Maybe worth looking at again no matter how big of a pain.

08-07-2009, 09:03 AM	#12
bigdog Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Central MA-Gilford Posts: 1,459 Thanks: 357 Thanked 126 Times in 100 Posts	Emgoin stalling problem Hi again.... I will respond to each of the recent Posts in order: Airwaves Alternative fuel source test, have not done yet. May be the next test I'll perform this w/e when I arrive in Meredith for vacation. Certainly would prove conclusively if this is fuel related, and rule out ignition issue. Acres per Second Have not changed the fuel line. The diaphram in the fuel pump cannot be repaired, it is a sealed unit. I think they make it that way so you have to buy new ! CL 240 LS I personally did not check the pickup tube, but my marine tech, recently removed checked the Anti-Siphon valve, which he said was working perfectly fine, and the ball inside ASV was moving freely in the fitting as it should. BTW, what is 'CL 240 LS' a Crownline ? If so you're one lucky guy !

08-07-2009, 01:28 PM	#13
CL 240 LS Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2009 Posts: 98 Thanks: 25 Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts	Crownline That I am! Hope you get up and running soon. Try finding a portable tank and hooking it up to eliminate as much of the fuel line components as possible. Maybe a local marina has such a setup that they can try?

The Following User Says Thank You to CL 240 LS For This Useful Post:
bigdog (08-07-2009)

08-11-2009, 09:39 AM	#14
Jersey Joe Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 28 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	OK, I have to share this with you folks, because it is almost unbelievable. First off, I "think" "hope" that my stalling problem is fixed. We went to fireworks in Alton Bay Saturday Night, went to Weirs Beach Sunday, and went to Center Harbor, and then to Meredith for Dinner Yesterday, without a problem ! ! So, bigdog, assuming I am fixed, it was the ASV, Coil, Fuel Line from Tank to Engine, or Vent Line. Now for the story.... When going to fuel up yesterday, I want to pour my StarTron into the tank. Did not realize the the little Plastic/Paper Seal thing under the cap was stuck on the top of the bottle. As I tipped the bottle to pour it into the tank, you guessed it, the little disc went happily into the fill hole!!! What are the chances ? So, I went over (I was at West Alton Marina) to the mechanic and talked with him. He told me, you have to get it out because it could plug up your intake and ....make the boat stall..... So, we have an appointment tomorrow morning and he is going to try to fish it out of the tank through the sending unit acccess hole. Just wanted to share what I hope is the fix, and the simply unbelievable story. JJ PS - Good

08-11-2009, 01:51 PM	#15
Fishy Cover Senior Member Join Date: May 2004 Posts: 135 Thanks: 10 Thanked 13 Times in 12 Posts	I Had The Same Problem I had the same problem with a Mercruiser 3.7. After a mechanic changed the points, rotor, condenser and coil it ran in the driveway (with earmuffs) but stalled out when I accelerated on the lake. Next I changed the fuel filter and dumped the contents into a clear container and it was 90% water. So I drained the tank thru the hose attached to the fuel pick-up and there was some water but not as much as I expected. I also found that the hose from the fuel pump to the fuel filter had a kink in it that may have restricted fuel flow so I replaced it. I know that there could be a small amount of water in the bottom of the tank that the pick-up did not reach so I poured in two bottles of drygas and 1 bottle of Seafoam and then added 10 gals of fresh gas. It started in 2 seconds and ran well on the lake at varying speeds from idle to 4000 RPM for the first hour and then I took a prospective buyer out for a second hour: still no problems. Hurray! The buyer trailered it to his lake last Sunday and added about 15 gals of fresh gas along the way. The buyer called me on Monday to tell me that he had been out for about 3 hours the engine ran well but he was now in the middle of his lake and the engine had stalled and would not start. Although it was an as-is sale I feel badly about it. It does not seem that he would be out of gas-- combined we put in 25 gals and ran the boat 2 hrs here and 3 hrs there. Is this engine that thirsty? If anyone has any suggestions they would be greatly appreciated.

08-11-2009, 03:02 PM	#16
EZ-Pass Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 66 Thanks: 6 Thanked 3 Times in 1 Post	It is starting to sound as if you had better join the famous clunker reward program with a boat.

08-11-2009, 04:24 PM	#17
LIforrelaxin Senior Member Join Date: May 2006 Location: Texas, Lake Ray Hubbard and NH, Long Island Winnipesaukee Posts: 2,970 Thanks: 1,064 Thanked 912 Times in 539 Posts	A recomendation Big Dog, As it is appearent you have been having the work done to your boat.... may I suggest Goodhue Marine in Moultonboro.... I have been using Brett and the boys for several years..... If you are having an issue with fuel getting to the carborator they will figure out why..... __________________ Life is about how much time you can spend relaxing... I do it on an island that isn't really an island.....

08-18-2009, 03:51 PM	#18
6meter Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 27 Thanks: 2 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts	Running? OK Bigdog, what are the results? Did it run all week? What did you replace?