Go Back   Winnipesaukee Forum > Winnipesaukee Forums > Home, Cottage or Land Maintenance
Home Forums Gallery Webcams Blogs YouTube Channel Classifieds Calendar Register FAQDonate Members List Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-22-2018, 06:20 AM   #1
thinkxingu
Senior Member
 
thinkxingu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,939
Thanks: 1,152
Thanked 1,959 Times in 1,210 Posts
Default Finishing Outdoor Adirondack Chair

Hi! I'm trying to decide how best to finish an Adirondack chair I just made. It will be outside all summer in a partly shady area, and I would like it to be fairly cleanable, which is why I'm leaning towards paint. I also want as little maintenance as possible. Thoughts?

One last thing: suggestions on how to treat the ground-touching feet so they don't rot out?

Thanks!

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
thinkxingu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 07:15 AM   #2
GodSmile
Senior Member
 
GodSmile's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Alton Bay
Posts: 188
Thanks: 91
Thanked 56 Times in 36 Posts
Default Wood species?

What type of wood did you make it out of?
GodSmile is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 08:04 AM   #3
8gv
Senior Member
 
8gv's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,002
Thanks: 61
Thanked 700 Times in 455 Posts
Default

My friend addressed the ground contact issue on his picnic table by setting the bottom of the legs in pans full of Thompson’s Water Seal. They soaked up quite a bit. This may affect how the rest of the chair can be finished. Perhaps there’s a compatible solid coor stain?
8gv is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 08:08 AM   #4
thinkxingu
Senior Member
 
thinkxingu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,939
Thanks: 1,152
Thanked 1,959 Times in 1,210 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by GodSmile View Post
What type of wood did you make it out of?
Pine 2x and 1x.

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
thinkxingu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 08:41 AM   #5
AC2717
Senior Member
 
AC2717's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Maynard, MA & Paugus Bay
Posts: 2,520
Thanks: 742
Thanked 344 Times in 257 Posts
Default

after finishing, I would coat with a couple coats of spar urithane
__________________
Capt. of the "No Worries"
AC2717 is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 02-22-2018, 08:46 AM   #6
ishoot308
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Gilford, NH / Welch Island
Posts: 5,907
Thanks: 2,279
Thanked 4,924 Times in 1,906 Posts
Default Spar

I agree with AC above...Spar Urethane is tough as nails!

Dan
__________________
It's Always Sunny On Welch Island!!
ishoot308 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 09:05 AM   #7
thinkxingu
Senior Member
 
thinkxingu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,939
Thanks: 1,152
Thanked 1,959 Times in 1,210 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AC2717 View Post
after finishing, I would coat with a couple coats of spar urithane
Even if I finish with paint? I've had Sherwin Williams on my garage doors for a decade with no discernable change, so I'm leaning that way.

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
thinkxingu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 09:06 AM   #8
Biggd
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Waltham Ma./Meredith NH
Posts: 3,733
Thanks: 1,952
Thanked 1,068 Times in 673 Posts
Default

There must be some kind of plastic, hard rubber, or metal shoe that you can buy or make to go on bottom of the legs, kind of like shoeing a horse. You need to keep the wood from coming directly in contact with the ground.
Even if you weather proof the legs once the bottom wears it will soak up the water.
You could probably cut up and old tire tread and make shoes out of that and they would be slip proof. You can get one of those for free as we have to pay to dispose of old tires now.
Biggd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 09:26 AM   #9
AC2717
Senior Member
 
AC2717's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Maynard, MA & Paugus Bay
Posts: 2,520
Thanks: 742
Thanked 344 Times in 257 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thinkxingu View Post
Even if I finish with paint? I've had Sherwin Williams on my garage doors for a decade with no discernable change, so I'm leaning that way.

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
yes it is a top coat, it does have a yellow hue to it so take that into consideration, but it what the marine industry uses to seal wood and anything that stays outside in the elements
280 or 300 grit light sanding inbetween coats.

The paint is a good paint but with the wear and tear of sitting on it and it baking in the sun and sweat, and sun screen and all that, it is a strong thick outer layer that you will not have to worry about for years
__________________
Capt. of the "No Worries"
AC2717 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 09:42 AM   #10
thinkxingu
Senior Member
 
thinkxingu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,939
Thanks: 1,152
Thanked 1,959 Times in 1,210 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggd View Post
There must be some kind of plastic, hard rubber, or metal shoe that you can buy or make to go on bottom of the legs, kind of like shoeing a horse. You need to keep the wood from coming directly in contact with the ground.
Even if you weather proof the legs once the bottom wears it will soak up the water.
You could probably cut up and old tire tread and make shoes out of that and they would be slip proof. You can get one of those for free as we have to pay to dispose of old tires now.
I was thinking that rubberized coating stuff like truck beds--don't they sell that in spray cans now?

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
thinkxingu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 09:49 AM   #11
Biggd
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Waltham Ma./Meredith NH
Posts: 3,733
Thanks: 1,952
Thanked 1,068 Times in 673 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thinkxingu View Post
I was thinking that rubberized coating stuff like truck beds--don't they sell that in spray cans now?

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
I'm not sure painting the legs in black would look very attractive. I was mainly concerned about the bottom of the legs that wear and soak up moisture.
Biggd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 10:01 AM   #12
jbolty
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 653
Thanks: 312
Thanked 244 Times in 143 Posts
Default

if it's a typical design the end grain on the bottom of the legs will sink into any soft ground and no amount of paint will stop rot over a pretty short time.

What I have done is make feet with aluminum angle iron. Or add a second "leg" screwed to the side of each main leg that extends past a little and acts as the sacrificial leg and can be replaced as needed.

I have a set my dad made out of white pine about 15 years ago and they are just finally ready to be replaced. I'm sure they have increased in weight over the years from paint.

Last edited by jbolty; 02-22-2018 at 11:18 AM.
jbolty is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 10:02 AM   #13
fatlazyless
Senior Member
 
fatlazyless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 8,506
Blog Entries: 1
Thanks: 291
Thanked 950 Times in 692 Posts
Default ... hard vinyl adirondack chairs

You know, for $13.99, Rand's Hardware on Main St in Plymouth already has their large, hard vinyl, all weather, adirondack style recliner chairs set up on the sidewalk, in front of the store.

Can be left outside, all year around, in the rain, snow, sleet, and sun, and they last for like five years or so.

Can be stacked one on top of another. Is better quality and a little different than the similar adirondack chairs sold at Walmart ...... so's stop in at Rt 93-Exit 25, and go spend 13.99 at Rand's Hardware, and you will be very glad you did!

Comes in black, white, brite red, dark red, brite blue, turquoise, grey, green, yellow, and orange. Holds up to 250-lbs. Is light weight so is great for ice fishing, drinking beer and falling asleep.
__________________
... down and out, liv'n that Walmart side of the lake!
fatlazyless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 11:07 AM   #14
Biggd
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Waltham Ma./Meredith NH
Posts: 3,733
Thanks: 1,952
Thanked 1,068 Times in 673 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fatlazyless View Post
You know, for $13.99, Rand's Hardware on Main St in Plymouth already has their large, hard vinyl, all weather, adirondack style recliner chairs set up on the sidewalk, in front of the store.

Can be left outside, all year around, in the rain, snow, sleet, and sun, and they last for like five years or so.

Can be stacked one on top of another. Is better quality and a little different than the similar adirondack chairs sold at Walmart ...... so's stop in at Rt 93-Exit 25, and go spend 13.99 at Rand's Hardware, and you will be very glad you did!

Comes in black, white, brite red, dark red, brite blue, turquoise, grey, green, yellow, and orange. Holds up to 250-lbs. Is light weight so is great for ice fishing, drinking beer and falling asleep.
And how does this helps the OP with his question?
Biggd is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 01:00 PM   #15
thinkxingu
Senior Member
 
thinkxingu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,939
Thanks: 1,152
Thanked 1,959 Times in 1,210 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by fatlazyless View Post
You know, for $13.99, Rand's Hardware on Main St in Plymouth already has their large, hard vinyl, all weather, adirondack style recliner chairs set up on the sidewalk, in front of the store.

Can be left outside, all year around, in the rain, snow, sleet, and sun, and they last for like five years or so.

Can be stacked one on top of another. Is better quality and a little different than the similar adirondack chairs sold at Walmart ...... so's stop in at Rt 93-Exit 25, and go spend 13.99 at Rand's Hardware, and you will be very glad you did!

Comes in black, white, brite red, dark red, brite blue, turquoise, grey, green, yellow, and orange. Holds up to 250-lbs. Is light weight so is great for ice fishing, drinking beer and falling asleep.
We actually had four like these, but ALL of them eventually cracked right at the front, putting crotches of all ages and size at risk! We like the trex-like ones sold by the roadside on 104, but I can make 4 for the price of 1. This one, combined with a rocker I'll make next, will cost less than $100.

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
thinkxingu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-22-2018, 01:53 PM   #16
Denis D
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 50
Thanks: 5
Thanked 23 Times in 17 Posts
Default Azek

I would go to HD and get a piece of 3/4" Azek trim board which will never rot, and cut pieces to create a 3/4" cap for the bottom of each leg, attached with a good quality 2 part Epoxy glue. Alternatively, you could make the whole leg out of Azek.

Before painting, a good coat of high quality oil-based primer, such as Zinnser, will greatly enhance the longevity.

good luck and post photos.
__________________
Denis in NJ
Denis D is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2018, 03:11 AM   #17
fatlazyless
Senior Member
 
fatlazyless's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 8,506
Blog Entries: 1
Thanks: 291
Thanked 950 Times in 692 Posts
Default

'Rustoleum liquid repelling treatment' is a $9.99 two step product, comes in three colors ..... google that?

Also, placing one or more casters on the bottom of each leg to make it more resistant for ground moisture to spread into wood chair legs should help.

By the way, the $13.99 adirondack chairs, in ten colors, at Rand's Hardware in Plymouth, seem like a very comfy, long lasting, large size, and attractive design. Seems like good quality, and a good price, in ten colors!
__________________
... down and out, liv'n that Walmart side of the lake!
fatlazyless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-23-2018, 06:14 AM   #18
thinkxingu
Senior Member
 
thinkxingu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,939
Thanks: 1,152
Thanked 1,959 Times in 1,210 Posts
Default

Ok, so I'm going to use a Sherwin Williams porch enamel and will add a "sacrificial" or rot-free (vinyl) bottom to the legs. The other option I found (and I think mentioned above) is to soak the legs in epoxy, but I think getting the wood off the ground will be a better solution. And it'll raise the chair a bit to help my suburban-dad-self get up!

Sent from my Moto G (5S) Plus using Tapatalk
thinkxingu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2018, 08:28 AM   #19
rozbeezer
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 24
Thanks: 1
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
Default

Benjamin Moore Arborcoat will last for years.
rozbeezer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2018, 10:45 AM   #20
welch-time
Senior Member
 
welch-time's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Welch Island
Posts: 117
Thanks: 4
Thanked 66 Times in 31 Posts
Default

A good coat of paint is fine for the bulk of the chair but the end grain of the legs are vulnerable where they touch the ground.
Here's an article from Rockler about coating the ends of the legs with epoxy.
http://www.rockler.com/how-to/achill...ture-projects/
welch-time is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2018, 11:10 AM   #21
MAXUM
Senior Member
 
MAXUM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Kuna ID
Posts: 2,755
Thanks: 246
Thanked 1,942 Times in 802 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by welch-time View Post
A good coat of paint is fine for the bulk of the chair but the end grain of the legs are vulnerable where they touch the ground.
Here's an article from Rockler about coating the ends of the legs with epoxy.
http://www.rockler.com/how-to/achill...ture-projects/
Something to think about - if you coat the ends of the legs with something that is waterproof that may prevent water from getting into the wood from the bottom of the legs, BUT water can also penetrate from the top down and once that wood on the bottom is wet and now behind a vapor barrier I'd think over time it would rot as it cannot fully dry out.
MAXUM is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2018, 05:50 PM   #22
MBNeckguy
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 69
Thanks: 150
Thanked 28 Times in 15 Posts
Default Finishing Outdoor Adirondack Chair

Do it like to sail boat guys do it, start with a coat of clear penetrating epoxy, West Systems makes a great one. It should give a bit of fiber crushing resistance to your soft pine) then use a good spar varnish. The CPE should help seal the end grain on the feet as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app
MBNeckguy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-04-2022, 09:03 AM   #23
thinkxingu
Senior Member
 
thinkxingu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,939
Thanks: 1,152
Thanked 1,959 Times in 1,210 Posts
Default

Just an update, as I found this thread looking for advice on my pine wall (that I just posted about):

I ended up using Sherwin Williams porch enamel that, after 4 years of 100% outside use, still looks new. I never ended up putting "sacrificial" legs on because I realized that the chair would last far longer than my attention span...and I was right–I use my swing almost exclusively!

I'm guessing this finish will last another 5+ years without an issue, which is pretty awesome.
thinkxingu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2022, 11:18 AM   #24
SailinAway
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 991
Thanks: 256
Thanked 280 Times in 169 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by thinkxingu View Post
I ended up using Sherwin Williams porch enamel that, after 4 years of 100% outside use, still looks new. . . . I'm guessing this finish will last another 5+ years without an issue, which is pretty awesome.
That's good to know. Do you also recommend this for actual porches? Getting tired of repainting my porch. Last time I used Behr, which I "thought" was a decent paint, but it started peeling within the first year.
SailinAway is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2022, 11:26 AM   #25
thinkxingu
Senior Member
 
thinkxingu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 5,939
Thanks: 1,152
Thanked 1,959 Times in 1,210 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SailinAway View Post
That's good to know. Do you also recommend this for actual porches? Getting tired of repainting my porch. Last time I used Behr, which I "thought" was a decent paint, but it started peeling within the first year.
I definitely think it would be a good option. My only concern, though, is that it's a paint that, when it eventually does start to deteriorate, would need work before refinishing. I think?

I'm moving everything I have to vinyl/synthetic products because wood blows to maintain.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
thinkxingu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2022, 12:47 PM   #26
SummerIslander
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 14
Thanks: 0
Thanked 7 Times in 4 Posts
Default seal before paint on outdoor wood

From my experience, it's mostly about moisture control. Paint and other deck/dock outdoor finishes will peel off unless the wood is first sealed against moisture movement in-out of the wood on all sides. For years, when doing new construction for docks/decks, I seal all cut parts with cheap polyurethane cut ~25% with paint thinner so it can soak in and penetrate the wood surface, not just sit on top of it. After a week or so (yes, it adds time to the project) I will paint with an oil-based deck paint on top, or in the case of porch rails and such that are not traffic surfaces, exterior latex works fine also.

For post or leg ends in contact with the ground in in the lake, I mix up a bucket of the sealer and let the ends soak in 3-4" for a few hours so it really penetrates the end grain. Needs at least a week for the ends to dry since it soaks up so much.

In the first couple of years, the paint may not adhere in a few small spots, so touch-up annually. But I've found that the paint never peels off wholesale because the moisture in the wood is stable, internal moisture is not forcing up below the paint sitting on top of the wood, rotting the thin surface layer, and causing the paint to lose adhesion. The paint protects the poly sealer from sun/UV so the poly will not deteriorate as it would with a 100% clear poly finish.

For existing structures exposed to the weather, sealing all sides of the wood when dry may hard to do, too much power washing off dirt, waiting to dry that, then crawling under and still unable to get the sealer into any joints.

For pressure-treated wood, it is always important to let it dry out completely in a covered location for a couple of weeks or even months before putting any coating or sealer on it. It almost always comes wet from the lumberyard. If you seal in the moisture, coatings will peel forever.

In theory, a good oil-based deck paint should penetrate and seal the wood surface the same way, but most seem too thick to really penetrate as well as the thinned poly does, and you cannot thin a deck paint. I have not seen any water-based products lasts long on deck or dock surfaces.
SummerIslander is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2022, 01:31 PM   #27
SailinAway
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 991
Thanks: 256
Thanked 280 Times in 169 Posts
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by SummerIslander View Post
I have not seen any water-based products lasts long on deck or dock surfaces.
I think that's my problem.
SailinAway is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:06 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

This page was generated in 0.29767 seconds