What am I in for?

Juiced06GTO · 07-03-2020, 12:40 PM

So I dropped my boat for an oil change/tune up/bellows check at Hazard Marine down here near my house in Mass and after two weeks of no communication I stopped in to find out that apparently my motor that ran beautiful all last season is junk. His words to me were “it was running like $&:t” so they did a compression test and found #7 to be dead.” He was pretty arrogant about the whole thing when I asked what he was talking about as it had been running great w no issues. I am done w having him work on it and will be bringing it home to check out myself.

I am really hoping to have this going again for our vacation in Moultonboro starting the 18th but maybe a pipe dream?? It’s a Volvo Penta 5.7

Winilyme · 07-03-2020, 08:05 PM

And the point is???????

8gv · 07-03-2020, 08:58 PM

B reak

O ut

A nother

T housand

Or several...

dickiej · 07-03-2020, 08:58 PM

If a doctor told you that you had cancer and you were feeling fine, wouldn't you get another opinion?

SH Smith · 07-04-2020, 05:41 AM

Try Jim over at Barry's Bait on Southwest Cutoff. While a little unconventional he is an excellent mechanic. I have been using him for twenty years. He is in back of the old USA Marine in Worcester

Juiced06GTO · 07-04-2020, 06:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SH Smith

Try Jim over at Barry's Bait on Southwest Cutoff. While a little unconventional he is an excellent mechanic. I have been using him for twenty years. He is in back of the old USA Marine in Worcester

Thanks for the contact info, I am right down the road in Sutton so that may work well! Thanks again!

Juiced06GTO · 07-04-2020, 06:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Winilyme

And the point is???????

Guess I should have been more direct, but I was still a bit heated from the news. I Was hoping someone had seen the issue before and might offer some advice for the diy route and if anyone had experience with getting parts in that tight of a time frame.

ITD · 07-04-2020, 06:49 AM

Might be a stuck valve, probably worse than that. It depends on how much of a mechanic you are if you can fix it DIY. Going to cost money and time.

MAXUM · 07-04-2020, 06:50 AM

First off I would definitely let somebody else look at it or go down to AutoZone and borrow one of their compression testers and check it yourself if you don't happen to have one. They are fairly inexpensive to buy and kind of handy to have.

There could be any number of reasons why you loose compression in a cylinder so the cause will have to be determined before the time and money required to fix it are known. It is a bit unusual for this to occur as described.

IF it turns out you have low compression in one cylinder before doing anything else check to make sure you have good spark from that plug - if you have a misfire or no fire that can cause unburned fuel to build up in the cylinder, erode the oil film and thus cause loss of compression. Hint - a misfire can mimic the symptoms of poor compression.

What does the oil pressure look like?

Pull the spark plug, shoot a few squirts of marvel mystery oil in there and fire it up, see if that helps in case you have a stuck ring.

Scoping the cylinder may also give you a tell tale which gives you a visual of the cylinder walls and top of the piston. If you can see scoring on the cylinder walls that's not good.

Checking the valve clearances my help you find a bent valve or excessive carbon buildup that may be interfering with the valves seating correctly.

I could go on and on, point being before that engine comes apart a competent mechanic has a bunch of things that can be checked with minimal time and effort that will be a good indicator as to what is wrong. A simple compression test is not sufficient enough to fully diagnose this problem (if one even exists).

Poor Richard · 07-04-2020, 07:04 AM

I agree it might be a hung valve.

A few years ago I installed a running engine toward the end of a season, put it in storage for the winter, went to fire it up the following spring and had backfires coming through the carb.

After some fumbling around a friend and I used a borescope and discovered a valve was stuck open. It was bad enough to where a pushrod was bent. After removing the heads (because if I'm rebuilding one, might as well rebuild both) I was met with the surprise of a valve that needed to be pounded out of the guide.

No idea why or how it happened but I went from a running engine to a head rebuild just like that.

MAXUM · 07-04-2020, 08:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Poor Richard

I agree it might be a hung valve.

A few years ago I installed a running engine toward the end of a season, put it in storage for the winter, went to fire it up the following spring and had backfires coming through the carb.

After some fumbling around a friend and I used a borescope and discovered a valve was stuck open. It was bad enough to where a pushrod was bent. After removing the heads (because if I'm rebuilding one, might as well rebuild both) I was met with the surprise of a valve that needed to be pounded out of the guide.

No idea why or how it happened but I went from a running engine to a head rebuild just like that.

This is why I am really surprised that there are those who either don't do any kind of oil change in the off season (regardless of hours of use) or wait till spring to change out the oil.

IF any contaminants suspended in the oil - especially moisture get into some of these areas it can cause corrosion siting there for prolonged periods of time and when you're dealing with very tight clearances it doesn't take much to cause something to bind or seize. That is where potentially catastrophic damage can occur in mere seconds.

Also a reason not to skimp on cheap fluids and filters. In the long run it's just not worth it.

Juiced06GTO · 07-04-2020, 08:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAXUM

This is why I am really surprised that there are those who either don't do any kind of oil change in the off season (regardless of hours of use) or wait till spring to change out the oil.

IF any contaminants suspended in the oil - especially moisture get into some of these areas it can cause corrosion siting there for prolonged periods of time and when you're dealing with very tight clearances it doesn't take much to cause something to bind or seize. That is where potentially catastrophic damage can occur in mere seconds.

Also a reason not to skimp on cheap fluids and filters. In the long run it's just not worth it.

100% this. I usually oil change in the fall when I winterize, but this year ran out of time and said oh what the heck I’ll just do it in the spring......good call on my part apparently.....

Juiced06GTO · 07-04-2020, 08:18 AM

Thanks for the tips guys. I am well versed in the auto side of things I rebuilt the ls short block in my race car and built a few cars just never had the reason to dig into boats, so not sure of anything unique to them especially as far as getting parts goes. My plan is to do a leak down test on it and see where the compression is escaping to and then we’ll go from there. I spoke to some guys on another forum who noted that the Volvo’s tend to develop a leak in the exhaust riser that leaks down to the exhaust valve causing them to rust and seize in place. A bore scope had crossed my mind and might be the best route before I go ripping everything apart.

ITD · 07-04-2020, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juiced06GTO

Thanks for the tips guys. I am well versed in the auto side of things I rebuilt the ls short block in my race car and built a few cars just never had the reason to dig into boats, so not sure of anything unique to them especially as far as getting parts goes. My plan is to do a leak down test on it and see where the compression is escaping to and then we’ll go from there. I spoke to some guys on another forum who noted that the Volvo’s tend to develop a leak in the exhaust riser that leaks down to the exhaust valve causing them to rust and seize in place. A bore scope had crossed my mind and might be the best route before I go ripping everything apart.

Sounds like you know what you are doing, I would have at it if it were mine and I had the place to work on it.

Juiced06GTO · 07-07-2020, 12:12 AM

I was able to spend a good three or so hours on it tonight. Confirmed the issue with a leak down test, appears to be a valve issue, possibly a head gasket. Oil is clean and no leakage into the crank case. I expected to find a leaking exhaust riser gasket dropping water on the exhaust valve as I had read it was common on these engines in a few places, but mine were clean, no signs of rust anywhere and the gaskets where in tact. I am thankful this has always been a freshwater boat, very little corrosion and the bolts actually come loose.

Got most of the parts torn down, manifolds, risers, wiring. I need to finish pulling the accessory drives off the front of the motor so I can free the head and then get the intake off and pull the head tomorrow.

Big thanks to Four Winns for actually giving some room in the engine compartment to work in! I am 6'0 and 240lbs and can squeeze myself in there to get at everything!!

If anyone has a lead on a head for an 06 5.7 GF-I Volvo let me know! I called a few places today and haven't heard back from anyone yet. Its a standard Chevy Vortec head, center bolt valve cover. I'll try to post some pictures of the work for anyone interested.

Dave R · 07-07-2020, 12:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juiced06GTO

If anyone has a lead on a head for an 06 5.7 GF-I Volvo let me know! I called a few places today and haven't heard back from anyone yet. Its a standard Chevy Vortec head, center bolt valve cover. I'll try to post some pictures of the work for anyone interested.

You'll need to verify the casting numbers and cross check the specs, but odds are good this is what you need: https://www.alliedmotorparts.com/96-...nder-head.html The GM year and the Volvo year are meaningless, VP used Vortecs for years after GM stopped putting them in vehicles in 2002. If it has casting plugs (freeze plugs) and they are steel, you'll need to replace them with brass unless you have fresh water cooling.

XCR-700 · 07-07-2020, 12:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave R

You'll need to verify the casting numbers and cross check the specs, but odds are good this is what you need: https://www.alliedmotorparts.com/96-...nder-head.html The GM year and the Volvo year are meaningless, VP used Vortecs for years after GM stopped putting them in vehicles in 2002. If it has casting plugs (freeze plugs) and they are steel, you'll need to replace them with bras unless you have fresh water cooling.

WOW, thats a really good price for a complete head!

I would have expected double or triple that.

Dave R · 07-07-2020, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by XCR-700

WOW, thats a really good price for a complete head!

I would have expected double or triple that.

They made a zillion of them and there's very little market anymore for the small block chevy. The GM LS motors are so awesomely powerful, compact, efficient, and cheap, few people are bothering with Vortec motors anymore. Variable valve timing really rocks.

Juiced06GTO · 07-07-2020, 07:12 PM

I have contemplated pulling the LS2 out of the GTO and dropping her in the boat so we can make vacation, but what would I do with 500+ hp in a deck boat on a lake with a 45mph speed limit

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dave R

They made a zillion of them and there's very little market anymore for the small block chevy. The GM LS motors are so awesomely powerful, compact, efficient, and cheap, few people are bothering with Vortec motors anymore. Variable valve timing really rocks.

8gv · 07-07-2020, 09:46 PM

You could get on plane, very quickly.

Dave R · 07-08-2020, 09:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juiced06GTO

I have contemplated pulling the LS2 out of the GTO and dropping her in the boat so we can make vacation, but what would I do with 500+ hp in a deck boat on a lake with a 45mph speed limit

The Roadkill guys made a video where they towed an engineless boat to Lake Elsinore with a Chevy pickup, transplanted the LS engine from the truck into the boat at the launch ramp, drove the boat around the lake (cannot recall how they launched it without the truck...) put the engine back in the truck, and towed the boat home.

Juiced06GTO · 07-08-2020, 08:54 PM

I have seen that episode, those guys are great. I got everything apart, ordered the 906 casting head from the link you posted thanks Dave!! Ordered 600 bucks worth of filters, belts, hoses, t stat, gaskets, etc. The maintenance items should be here Friday, head on Monday. I may take Tues off from work to slap it all back together so I have a few days to take care of any issues before vacation.

Dave R · 07-11-2020, 10:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Juiced06GTO

I have seen that episode, those guys are great. I got everything apart, ordered the 906 casting head from the link you posted thanks Dave!! Ordered 600 bucks worth of filters, belts, hoses, t stat, gaskets, etc. The maintenance items should be here Friday, head on Monday. I may take Tues off from work to slap it all back together so I have a few days to take care of any issues before vacation.

I like your can-do attitude and I hope it all goes back together smoothly. If, for some reason, you need a scanner for that engine, I have a Tech Mate that you can borrow.

Poor Richard · 07-11-2020, 06:07 PM

How do the cylinder walls look? More specifically #7?

07-03-2020, 12:40 PM	#1
Juiced06GTO Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 204 Thanks: 8 Thanked 82 Times in 47 Posts	What am I in for? So I dropped my boat for an oil change/tune up/bellows check at Hazard Marine down here near my house in Mass and after two weeks of no communication I stopped in to find out that apparently my motor that ran beautiful all last season is junk. His words to me were “it was running like $&:t” so they did a compression test and found #7 to be dead.” He was pretty arrogant about the whole thing when I asked what he was talking about as it had been running great w no issues. I am done w having him work on it and will be bringing it home to check out myself. I am really hoping to have this going again for our vacation in Moultonboro starting the 18th but maybe a pipe dream?? It’s a Volvo Penta 5.7

07-04-2020, 05:41 AM	#5
SH Smith Junior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 1 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	What am I for Try Jim over at Barry's Bait on Southwest Cutoff. While a little unconventional he is an excellent mechanic. I have been using him for twenty years. He is in back of the old USA Marine in Worcester Last edited by SH Smith; 07-04-2020 at 06:14 AM.

07-08-2020, 08:54 PM	#22
Juiced06GTO Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 204 Thanks: 8 Thanked 82 Times in 47 Posts	I have seen that episode, those guys are great. I got everything apart, ordered the 906 casting head from the link you posted thanks Dave!! Ordered 600 bucks worth of filters, belts, hoses, t stat, gaskets, etc. The maintenance items should be here Friday, head on Monday. I may take Tues off from work to slap it all back together so I have a few days to take care of any issues before vacation. Attached Images

07-03-2020, 08:05 PM	#2
Winilyme Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2019 Location: Ice in = CT / Ice out = Winnipesaukee Posts: 442 Thanks: 109 Thanked 264 Times in 140 Posts	And the point is???????

07-03-2020, 08:58 PM	#3
8gv Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 2,009 Thanks: 61 Thanked 701 Times in 455 Posts	B reak O ut A nother T housand Or several...

07-03-2020, 08:58 PM	#4
dickiej Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: White Salmon, WA Posts: 291 Thanks: 21 Thanked 165 Times in 90 Posts	If a doctor told you that you had cancer and you were feeling fine, wouldn't you get another opinion?

07-04-2020, 06:49 AM	#8
ITD Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Moultonboro, NH Posts: 2,860 Thanks: 461 Thanked 666 Times in 366 Posts	Might be a stuck valve, probably worse than that. It depends on how much of a mechanic you are if you can fix it DIY. Going to cost money and time.

07-04-2020, 06:50 AM	#9
MAXUM Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Kuna ID Posts: 2,755 Thanks: 246 Thanked 1,942 Times in 802 Posts	First off I would definitely let somebody else look at it or go down to AutoZone and borrow one of their compression testers and check it yourself if you don't happen to have one. They are fairly inexpensive to buy and kind of handy to have. There could be any number of reasons why you loose compression in a cylinder so the cause will have to be determined before the time and money required to fix it are known. It is a bit unusual for this to occur as described. IF it turns out you have low compression in one cylinder before doing anything else check to make sure you have good spark from that plug - if you have a misfire or no fire that can cause unburned fuel to build up in the cylinder, erode the oil film and thus cause loss of compression. Hint - a misfire can mimic the symptoms of poor compression. What does the oil pressure look like? Pull the spark plug, shoot a few squirts of marvel mystery oil in there and fire it up, see if that helps in case you have a stuck ring. Scoping the cylinder may also give you a tell tale which gives you a visual of the cylinder walls and top of the piston. If you can see scoring on the cylinder walls that's not good. Checking the valve clearances my help you find a bent valve or excessive carbon buildup that may be interfering with the valves seating correctly. I could go on and on, point being before that engine comes apart a competent mechanic has a bunch of things that can be checked with minimal time and effort that will be a good indicator as to what is wrong. A simple compression test is not sufficient enough to fully diagnose this problem (if one even exists).

07-04-2020, 07:04 AM	#10
Poor Richard Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: The humbling river Posts: 301 Thanks: 42 Thanked 78 Times in 55 Posts	I agree it might be a hung valve. A few years ago I installed a running engine toward the end of a season, put it in storage for the winter, went to fire it up the following spring and had backfires coming through the carb. After some fumbling around a friend and I used a borescope and discovered a valve was stuck open. It was bad enough to where a pushrod was bent. After removing the heads (because if I'm rebuilding one, might as well rebuild both) I was met with the surprise of a valve that needed to be pounded out of the guide. No idea why or how it happened but I went from a running engine to a head rebuild just like that.

07-04-2020, 08:18 AM	#13
Juiced06GTO Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 204 Thanks: 8 Thanked 82 Times in 47 Posts	Thanks for the tips guys. I am well versed in the auto side of things I rebuilt the ls short block in my race car and built a few cars just never had the reason to dig into boats, so not sure of anything unique to them especially as far as getting parts goes. My plan is to do a leak down test on it and see where the compression is escaping to and then we’ll go from there. I spoke to some guys on another forum who noted that the Volvo’s tend to develop a leak in the exhaust riser that leaks down to the exhaust valve causing them to rust and seize in place. A bore scope had crossed my mind and might be the best route before I go ripping everything apart.

07-07-2020, 12:12 AM	#15
Juiced06GTO Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Posts: 204 Thanks: 8 Thanked 82 Times in 47 Posts	I was able to spend a good three or so hours on it tonight. Confirmed the issue with a leak down test, appears to be a valve issue, possibly a head gasket. Oil is clean and no leakage into the crank case. I expected to find a leaking exhaust riser gasket dropping water on the exhaust valve as I had read it was common on these engines in a few places, but mine were clean, no signs of rust anywhere and the gaskets where in tact. I am thankful this has always been a freshwater boat, very little corrosion and the bolts actually come loose. Got most of the parts torn down, manifolds, risers, wiring. I need to finish pulling the accessory drives off the front of the motor so I can free the head and then get the intake off and pull the head tomorrow. Big thanks to Four Winns for actually giving some room in the engine compartment to work in! I am 6'0 and 240lbs and can squeeze myself in there to get at everything!! If anyone has a lead on a head for an 06 5.7 GF-I Volvo let me know! I called a few places today and haven't heard back from anyone yet. Its a standard Chevy Vortec head, center bolt valve cover. I'll try to post some pictures of the work for anyone interested.

07-07-2020, 09:46 PM	#20
8gv Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2012 Posts: 2,009 Thanks: 61 Thanked 701 Times in 455 Posts	You could get on plane, very quickly.

The Following User Says Thank You to Dave R For This Useful Post:
Juiced06GTO (07-12-2020)

07-11-2020, 06:07 PM	#24
Poor Richard Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2017 Location: The humbling river Posts: 301 Thanks: 42 Thanked 78 Times in 55 Posts	How do the cylinder walls look? More specifically #7?