Building a fire in a wood stove

[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

If it's not cut and split, it's not seasoned. And if it's been tight against the ground for three years, it may be rotting.

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Sigh . . . alright, Sparky, if you say so!

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

Sigh . . . alright, Sparky, if you say so!

Sorry that wasn't what you wanted to hear. What I meant to write was, "that wood is perfectly seasoned and, like, totally ready to burn. I wouldn't even bother splitting it—just leave the stove door open and slowly feed the whole length as it burns."

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[upthesaukee]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

Sigh . . . alright, Sparky, if you say so!

But then again... A columnist John Harrigan does an article in about 6 or 8 newspapers in NH.

some of his columns have dealt with burning wood. Now he does have an outdoor furnace as opposed to a woodstove. However, he has 3 woodpiles, the location of which varies from year to year. The 3 piles are this year's wood, next year's wood, and two years hence wood.

This year's wood gets cut and split as necessary, then stacked in the woodshed next to the outside wood furnace.

What happens next year is that what was next year's wood becomes the current year, two year becomes next year, , and a new two year stack is started.

I agree with Think that you have to be careful with wood that is languishing on the ground for a couple of years, because it will end up rotting in the trunk.

I had a large poplar come down and about 2 years, maybe three, I was going to cut and split it for early and/ or late season burns to take the chill out of the house where you don't need an all day roaring fire to stay warm. I fired a up the chainsaw and it was like cutting a sponge. Bummed.

Check some of the logs. If there is a little rot by the bark, but the majority of the log is solid, go for it. Think 80-85% of the log solid.

I try not to waste wood. Don't forget 2-3 inch, even 4 inch rounds will burn well in an established fire. These would be smaller diameter trees and larger branches of bigger trees.

Good luck.

Dave

[John Mercier]

Because farmers used to cut a firewood tree before the leaves fell. They would leave the tree intact and allow the leaves to ''pull'' the moisture from the trunk and branches as it naturally would... thus lowering the internal moisture content.

[8gv]

When I built my VT log home I cut down the trees necessary to make room for the driveway, house build area and leech field.

I cut the timber to 8' lengths and stacked them between trees around the lot.

A year later, after the house was closed in, I decided to cut some firewood to stove length.

I was disappointed to find out that much of the wood was already rotting and I had to sort through the stacks to find good firewood.

After two years it was a useless mission.

Had I taken the time to cut, split and properly cover the wood I would have had several years worth.

Getting the house closed in before fall was the priority so that didn't happen.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

If it's not cut and split, it's not seasoned. And if it's been tight against the ground for three years, it may be rotting.

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Let me add that those downed lengths might be insect infested, as well.

I was reminded of this while finishing my processing for '23-'24 today and I found ant and termite nests in wood that had been on the ground for only 9 months.

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[John Mercier]

Still might have viable wood.

[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Sorry that wasn't what you wanted to hear. What I meant to write was, "that wood is perfectly seasoned and, like, totally ready to burn. I wouldn't even bother splitting it—just leave the stove door open and slowly feed the whole length as it burns."

Well, Thinkxingu, once again you've educated me and I decided to take your advice. I made this video to show my new method for burning huge logs without splitting them. Excuse the state of my living room; I didn't have time to vacuum before making the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6OXLyrRhq24

[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

Still might have viable wood.

Absolutely. I had a very large maple felled 3 years ago because it was rotten. The pile sat there for 3 years in a wet area, cut to 14" but not split. I tried to find someone to take it away because I figured it was useless. Then when oil hit $5 a gallon, out of curiosity I decided to split some of the pieces. I found plenty of burnable wood.

[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Let me add that those downed lengths might be insect infested, as well. I was reminded of this while finishing my processing for '23-'24 today and I found ant and termite nests in wood that had been on the ground for only 9 months.

True. I leave split wood outside and keep only a small quantity in the garage, briefly, before burning it. When I bought my house it had two cords of wood very neatly stacked in the garage under the house. Thought I was lucky. Imagine my surprise when I moved in a few weeks later and heard all kinds of munching and crunching down there. Had to haul two cords out of the garage and up a hill to restack it away from the house.

[fatlazyless]

Another FREE source for excellent wood is those driveway and parking lot 42"x1"x!" stakes, sometimes painted orange at one end, that tell the snow plow driver where the paved asphalt is, under the snow.

On April 1 just ask the building management if you can have all their old winter stakes if you walk around and remove them ..... no joke.

Cut from el cheapo NH hardwood, they burn totally excellent, the greatest kindling ever in the world history of hearth heat fire. ....

[SailinAway]

After reading a lot of reviews about my woodstove, I've concluded that a lot of other users find this stove quite difficult to manage, as Thinkxingu alluded. Some sample reviews that are similar to my experience:

"This item eats wood like a cast iron box stove. The damper does little to control the burn. I have to burn with the door ajar to keep it going. I lasts for only a couple of hours and requires constant supervision like a toddler."

"You have to feed it wood at least every 2 hours or it dies out. There is no lip so when you open the door to put more wood in the ashes and burning wood have fallen out."

"Firebox is small, have to continuously feed it wood, cant get a good burn longer than an hour with seasoned wood and heat output poor, has difficulty heating 850 sf."

"It is hard to start a fire and keep a fire going. It doesn't get very hot once a fire is going!"

"Needs refueling every 2 hours."

I have found some things that can help this underpowered stove. The first is a large amount of kindling to get a hot fire going quickly. The kindling needs to be pine. I've been resawing 18" logs in half for north-south loading. Then the longer logs can be stacked east-west with adequate air. Also, there's a tipping point where opening the door a crack will let heat escape, so it's better to close it at that point and contain the heat. I suspect that if I had 50% pine logs, that would also help.

Granted, results will also depend on the user's knowledge and skill (that applies to me as well), but I've concluded that the "normal" functioning of a woodstove described in this thread really doesn't apply to this particular stove. I will try to obtain some pine and see if that helps. I'll keep reading woodstove forums for tips and see if I can improve my technique.

Don't get me wrong---my house is warm at the moment. But I'm restarting the fire from scratch at least 3 times a day whenever I go out for errands, a hike, or to split wood. When I'm at home working I get up to tend the fire every 20 minutes. As I was writing that last sentence a log fell against the glass door---very delicate maneuver to open the door a crack and coax the log back up without it falling out of the stove.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

After reading a lot of reviews about my woodstove, I've concluded that a lot of other users find this stove quite difficult to manage, as Thinkxingu alluded. Some sample reviews that are similar to my experience:

"This item eats wood like a cast iron box stove. The damper does little to control the burn. I have to burn with the door ajar to keep it going. I lasts for only a couple of hours and requires constant supervision like a toddler."

"You have to feed it wood at least every 2 hours or it dies out. There is no lip so when you open the door to put more wood in the ashes and burning wood have fallen out."

"Firebox is small, have to continuously feed it wood, cant get a good burn longer than an hour with seasoned wood and heat output poor, has difficulty heating 850 sf."

"It is hard to start a fire and keep a fire going. It doesn't get very hot once a fire is going!"

"Needs refueling every 2 hours."

I have found some things that can help this underpowered stove. The first is a large amount of kindling to get a hot fire going quickly. The kindling needs to be pine. I've been resawing 18" logs in half for north-south loading. Then the longer logs can be stacked east-west with adequate air. Also, there's a tipping point where opening the door a crack will let heat escape, so it's better to close it at that point and contain the heat. I suspect that if I had 50% pine logs, that would also help.

Granted, results will also depend on the user's knowledge and skill (that applies to me as well), but I've concluded that the "normal" functioning of a woodstove described in this thread really doesn't apply to this particular stove. I will try to obtain some pine and see if that helps. I'll keep reading woodstove forums for tips and see if I can improve my technique.

Don't get me wrong---my house is warm at the moment. But I'm restarting the fire from scratch at least 3 times a day whenever I go out for errands, a hike, or to split wood. When I'm at home working I get up to tend the fire every 20 minutes. As I was writing that last sentence a log fell against the glass door---very delicate maneuver to open the door a crack and coax the log back up without it falling out of the stove.

Either your wood isn't seasoned enough (probably this) or there's something wrong with your stove (less likely).

On a chilly day (helps with draft), I can load my 13 with splits and get it going with the door cracked in less than 10 minutes. After around 30 minutes, I can shut the air half way and get 3-4 hours of good heat. No way your door should be open for more than 10-15 minutes and you absolutely shouldn't be starting from scratch 3-4 times a day.


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[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Either your wood isn't seasoned enough (probably this) or there's something wrong with your stove (less likely).

On a chilly day (helps with draft), I can load my 13 with splits and get it going with the door cracked in less than 10 minutes. After around 30 minutes, I can shut the air half way and get 3-4 hours of good heat. No way your door should be open for more than 10-15 minutes and you absolutely shouldn't be starting from scratch 3-4 times a day.

I've had this stove for years and it has always behaved like this regardless of the wood. When I posted last April I was burning 4-year-old wood. I had another stove prior to this one and had no difficulty with it even as a beginner. How about you post a video so I can see how you do it?

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

I've had this stove for years and it has always behaved like this regardless of the wood. When I posted last April I was burning 4-year-old wood. I had another stove prior to this one and had no difficulty with it even as a beginner. How about you post a video so I can see how you do it?

You want a 4-hour video?

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[Slickcraft]

The Englander that we have on Welch is smaller but will hold a fire longer than yours. Once it is up to secondary burn temp, the air inlet can be closed most or all the way to get a lazy hot fire. The built in air control can really shut it down if closed all the way.

Wondering if there is a secondary path for combustion air to get into your stove. Does it have an ash drawer? If so, does that have a good gasket seal? Does the stove door have a tight gasket seal? With the stove off and cold, close the door on a dollar bill. You should just be able to pull it out. If it pulls out easy, see if the closure tightness is adjustable.

Alan

[John Mercier]

What is the flue made out of?

[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

You want a 4-hour video?

Two things would be helpful to see: (1) Building and lighting the fire and refueling when the kindling has burned down, and (2) refueling after 4 hours. Not trying to be a pest. I honestly don't know how you achieve the results you report. I'd love to learn. Free me from stove slavery!

[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by Slickcraft

The Englander that we have on Welch is smaller but will hold a fire longer than yours. Once it is up to secondary burn temp, the air inlet can be closed most or all the way to get a lazy hot fire. The built in air control can really shut it down if closed all the way.

Wondering if there is a secondary path for combustion air to get into your stove. Does it have an ash drawer? If so, does that have a good gasket seal? Does the stove door have a tight gasket seal? With the stove off and cold, close the door on a dollar bill. You should just be able to pull it out. If it pulls out easy, see if the closure tightness is adjustable.

Alan

You raise some good questions, thank you. Yes, there's an ash drawer, and I asked above why there are no ashes in it.

The door does NOT have a tight gasket seal. Some mice took a liking to the gasket. I thought this wasn't a problem because maybe the crack is letting helpful air into the stove. Am I wrong about that?

[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by John Mercier

What is the flue made out of?

The chimney is made of bricks lined with . . . a liner.

[John Mercier]

The chimney needs to heat up to help the draft.
It has a lot of mass pulling heat from the exhaust gases.

[Slickcraft]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

You raise some good questions, thank you. Yes, there's an ash drawer, and I asked above why there are no ashes in it.

The door does NOT have a tight gasket seal. Some mice took a liking to the gasket. I thought this wasn't a problem because maybe the crack is letting helpful air into the stove. Am I wrong about that?

It is a problem as you can't slow down the burn rate once the stove gets up to temp. Also the stove's designed air flow has some air directed to the secondary burn ports. Air flow from the door may hinder the efficiency of the secondary burn.

Alan

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

You raise some good questions, thank you. Yes, there's an ash drawer, and I asked above why there are no ashes in it.

The door does NOT have a tight gasket seal. Some mice took a liking to the gasket. I thought this wasn't a problem because maybe the crack is letting helpful air into the stove. Am I wrong about that?

Ummm...for real? We've been talking about how shutting the air down increases burn time...but that only works when you can actually shut the air down. Obviously, having a leaking front door will negate that. Replace that gasket ASAP.

In terms of the ash draw: there's an opening on the floor of the box that ash can be shoveled through and into the ash pan below the air control lever. Don't use it. The ash pans on these things are not sealed well, so you're better off cramming it with ash so you don't have an (another) air leak.


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[SailinAway]

Got it, Thinkxingu. Thanks for the clarifications!

[ApS]

Local hardware stores should have those fiberglass gaskets. My stove's original gaskets appeared like woven rope. You'll need some kind of securing substance, but the gaskets (alone) provided by Bradley's Hardware (Wolfeboro) fit tightly enough.

To get a longer burn, use large chunks of "unsuitable" rotting wood--or large unseasoned hemlock. Twelve-inch (by 18-inch) rounds will fit through the front door; however, ashes and embers can leak out so I use the side door--which will clear 7-inch rounds.

Rotting wood used to be called "punk", and would smolder indefinitely. Indigenous-people worldwide had names for those individuals responsible for "keeping the fire".

My woodstove is perhaps twice as big, and a "round" of unseasoned 7-inch hemlock takes all night to dry out and burn--with the air shut down, of course. Plus, it leaves hot coals to ignite the next day's seasoned birch--which quickly pre-heats the seasoned maple to follow.

[thinkxingu]

Sailin, a couple (extended) notes:

1. There are two goals when running your stove (other than straight heat, obviously): to run it hot enough to not create creosote buildup in the liner and to get the longest, most efficient burn times possible.

To do this, you want to get the stove as hot as possible as quickly as possible to create a strong draft and to get heat up the chimney to prevent creosote deposits.

To get the longest, most efficient burns, you need to create the right conditions for secondary burn. I've linked to one of the simplest and most complete explanations of that below (though it's a tad busy with ads). Essentially, you want to turn the air control down as much as possible to maintain the right heat and air flow for the gases to burn themselves rather than escape up the chimney. That's the Aurora-Borealis-looking stuff at the top of the photo I posted earlier in the thread.

You can't do either of these without good air control, so definitely get that gasket replaced.

https://fireplaceuniverse.com/second...rn-wood-stove/


2. I've attached some photos of my moisture gauge readings taken yesterday. All of the pieces tested were cut and split 4 years ago. 20% is the max to burn efficiently, and I prefer between 10-15%. Even though all of those pieces are 4-years-old, only two are really ready to burn (and they burned perfectly!).

Birch, pine, etc. definitely dry more quickly than oak, maple, etc., but the fact remains that age doesn't always mean dryness.







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[SailinAway]

I tried a top-down fire today. The results were mixed. First, it can only be successful in a stove that's tall enough for one layer of large logs, one layer of medium, and, critically, a considerable amount of kindling on top. If the stove is not high enough---like mine---the small amount of kindling will burn through before getting the layer below it going sufficiently. I noticed the smoldering fire just in time to add more kindling and hit it with the bellows.

Also, because the kindling is on top, as it burns it tends to fall down in an uncontrolled way and spill out the front of the stove if the door is partially open. First time I've ever had burning wood actually exit the stove.

However, with the addition of more kindling, the fire did eventually burn down to the large logs and a bed of good coals was created faster than usual---about 35 minutes. The claim is that this kind of fire is simple: light it and forget it for the next couple of hours. I didn't find that to be true. I probably won't try this again, for safety's sake.

[thinkxingu]

Were I you, I'd be loading N/S to start and using longer E/W to replenish.

Regardless, until you address the gasket/air leaks and confirm dry wood, you're running in circles.

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[thinkxingu]

Here are three photos from my fire starting tonight. This load is oak/maple in the back, pine in the front. Both seasoned at least three years.

#1 shows the size starter I use and where I put it.

#2 shows the final splits I put in front of that starter immediately after I lit the starter. I put the splits close enough to the starter to light but with enough of a gap for smoke to rise.

#3 shows five minutes in. You can see the fire is spreading nicely by the glow.

I was ready to start shutting the air down (1/3 first, 2/3 second) in 30 minutes.







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[SailinAway]

Thanks for the photos! Which stove is that?

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

Thanks for the photos! Which stove is that?

That's my upstairs Hearthstone, but I build fires in the Englander the same way. The only difference is that I try my best to go N/S in the Englander because it's downstairs and doesn't have the same draft quality. On a really cold day, it matters much less.

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[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

Were I you, I'd be loading N/S to start and using longer E/W to replenish.

I just measured the Englander 13. The maximum log length north to south is 10". I mentioned early on that short logs are useful, but most people don't have such short logs. Either they're not interested in cutting them that short or whoever they buy wood from isn't willing to cut them that short. Personally I find that short logs make a huge difference with this stove.

Over my objections, an "expert" built a fire in my woodstove the other day by packing it initially east to west with large logs and minimal kindling, closed the door after one minute, and closed the damper halfway about 5 minutes later "because this is how you get a long fire and save wood." I watched as smoke filled the house and the fire died an agonizing death over the next hour.

I have since carefully read the manufacturer's instructions for building a fire in the Englander 13. The instructions correspond exactly with my experience and lead to success. Nowhere do the instructions mention heavy initial loading or closing down the damper for a long overnight burn. Some quotes from the manual:

--"Adding large pieces at the early stages will only serve to smother the fire."

--"When shutting down the stove, fully open the air control. This will allow chimney temperatures to remain as high as possible for as long as possible. Remember, cold chimney temperatures create creosote."

--"Burn hot fires. For most appliances, a smoldering fire is not a safe or efficient fire." [per EPA]

--"DO NOT install a flue pipe damper or any other restrictive device in the exhaust venting system of this unit." [Also from the EPA in the Englander 13 manual. Reason not specified---assume it's to reduce smoke emissions?]

So I conclude that burning wood is a balancing act between (1) getting the heat you need, (2) for the period you need it for, (3) conserving wood, (4) fire safety, namely, preventing creosote from forming, and (5) protecting the environment. Some of those goals conflict. I think preventing creosote has to be the priority at all times.

With the Englander 13 the challenge is getting heat for the period you need it for. I don't believe it's possible to heat solely with this small stove in our climate. Oil is currently providing heat overnight in my house. A power outage when it's 20 below would required tending the stove frequently day and night.

That's my experience to date. I'm sure there are other valid perspectives and wood-burning strategies, so I'll continue learning about this.

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

I just measured the Englander 13. The maximum log length north to south is 10". I mentioned early on that short logs are useful, but most people don't have such short logs. Either they're not interested in cutting them that short or whoever they buy wood from isn't willing to cut them that short. Personally I find that short logs make a huge difference with this stove.

Over my objections, an "expert" built a fire in my woodstove the other day by packing it initially east to west with large logs and minimal kindling, closed the door after one minute, and closed the damper halfway about 5 minutes later "because this is how you get a long fire and save wood." I watched as smoke filled the house and the fire died an agonizing death over the next hour.

I have since carefully read the manufacturer's instructions for building a fire in the Englander 13. The instructions correspond exactly with my experience and lead to success. Nowhere do the instructions mention heavy initial loading or closing down the damper for a long overnight burn. Some quotes from the manual:

--"Adding large pieces at the early stages will only serve to smother the fire."

--"When shutting down the stove, fully open the air control. This will allow chimney temperatures to remain as high as possible for as long as possible. Remember, cold chimney temperatures create creosote."

--"Burn hot fires. For most appliances, a smoldering fire is not a safe or efficient fire." [per EPA]

--"DO NOT install a flue pipe damper or any other restrictive device in the exhaust venting system of this unit." [Also from the EPA in the Englander 13 manual. Reason not specified---assume it's to reduce smoke emissions?]

So I conclude that burning wood is a balancing act between (1) getting the heat you need, (2) for the period you need it for, (3) conserving wood, (4) fire safety, namely, preventing creosote from forming, and (5) protecting the environment. Some of those goals conflict. I think preventing creosote has to be the priority at all times.

With the Englander 13 the challenge is getting heat for the period you need it for. I don't believe it's possible to heat solely with this small stove in our climate. Oil is currently providing heat overnight in my house. A power outage when it's 20 below would required tending the stove frequently day and night.

That's my experience to date. I'm sure there are other valid perspectives and wood-burning strategies, so I'll continue learning about this.

Creosote is not at all a concern for anyone 1. Burning dry wood and/or 2. Having the chimney cleaned every year or two.

You will not burn enough wood in one, and probably two or three, years to build up a worrying amount of creosote. I go literally 3-4 years between cleanings and still end up with close to zero residue.

The reason creosote is a thing is twofold: inefficient fireplaces and moist wood, both of which should be/are a problem of the past.

If I have a chance in the next few days, I'll start a fire in my 13 and share some pics.

One last thing: 100% wood stove heat is absolutely challenging, but the 13 was never designed to be the central heating source of anything save the smallest of homes. It'll heat a room or small area fine, though, especially if well insulated. The 30? Now that thing's legit.

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[Poor Richard]

What I do with a cold stove/ chimney is to get a decent flame started. It doesn't have to be a large flame but it does have to be something that can start pushing heat up the chimney. (For reference, a flame that is roughly and consistently at least 6" to 8" tall)

We have a ~30' vertical run of all-fuel chimney pipe to contend with before we can start placing logs inside the stove. This could be anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes before the initial kindling burn displaces enough cold air up the chimney to eliminate the down draft effect, depending on the ambient temp.

I have a damper 18" up the stove pipe and there is an air intake on each of the front doors of our 50+ year old Old Mill stove. Generally, nothing starts getting closed down until I see temps approaching 300 however I'll run the flue damper at around 50% open until the temps are up if I know the wood is dry enough, then close it down to nearly 20% open and let the stove simmer

I believe the mistake your fire-starting expert made was piling logs into the stove before getting a basic and reliable heat source going to displace the cold air in the chimney.

[WinnisquamZ]

Originally Posted by Poor Richard

What I do with a cold stove/ chimney is to get a decent flame started. It doesn't have to be a large flame but it does have to be something that can start pushing heat up the chimney. (For reference, a flame that is roughly and consistently at least 6" to 8" tall)

We have a ~30' vertical run of all-fuel chimney pipe to contend with before we can start placing logs inside the stove. This could be anywhere from a few seconds to a few minutes before the initial kindling burn displaces enough cold air up the chimney to eliminate the down draft effect, depending on the ambient temp.

I have a damper 18" up the stove pipe and there is an air intake on each of the front doors of our 50+ year old Old Mill stove. Generally, nothing starts getting closed down until I see temps approaching 300 however I'll run the flue damper at around 50% open until the temps are up if I know the wood is dry enough, then close it down to nearly 20% open and let the stove simmer

I believe the mistake your fire-starting expert made was piling logs into the stove before getting a basic and reliable heat source going to displace the cold air in the chimney.

Fire starter sticks, fat wood, and a bit of paper will get you started. Question, is there a small grate on the stove floor? I add a few smaller pieces to the top of the grate and newspaper balls underneath. Light a piece of newspaper and hold it up at the flume for a few seconds it warm the draft. Drop it under the grate before you burn your hand! Start piling smaller pieces in a box shape and enjoy.


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[Poor Richard]

No grate. Everything happens on top of the fire bricks

[WinnisquamZ]

Originally Posted by Poor Richard

No grate. Everything happens on top of the fire bricks

That is a cool looking stove. A small grate might help.


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[ApS]

As previously stated my Trinity III cast iron woodstove accepts 18-inch logs.

Every once in a while, I'll find one that won't allow me to close the side door. (Too long, or presenting a long "splinter").

I reposition it vertically so one end enters the pipe. That repositioning hasn't presented a problem, and is usually the first log to burn completely.

[thinkxingu]

Here are some pics from my Englander 13 that I decided to get going tonight for my wife (it's our downstairs stove, where our bedroom is).

As you can see, I don't use anything for kindling except for two small pieces of pine board trim (to the sides of the top starter). The rest is well-seasoned pine (to the front) and maple/oak to the back.

I light the top starter (1/4 of a Lightning Nugget, pic 1) first to get the draft going and then, after a minute or two, start the second starter in the middle (another 1/4, pic 2).

After about 5 minutes with the door cracked (handle inserted to prevent wood from falling out, pic 3), I shut the door, pic 4. When it gets to ~500 on the flu, I shut the air 1/3. I almost never shut more than that as I only use this one for short periods.

Pic 5 is my setup that you can see piping and thermometer.











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[SailinAway]

Thank you for posting those photos. So you pack the stove that full before lighting it? That's surprising. How come there's no wood above the top starter? Is that just to get the draft going? What length do you cut your wood to? It looks like 10" and 14".

I think my problem is lack of pine. I need to get a battery chainsaw and cut down a couple of old pines.

[WinnisquamZ]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

Thank you for posting those photos. So you pack the stove that full before lighting it? That's surprising. How come there's no wood above the top starter? Is that just to get the draft going? What length do you cut your wood to? It looks like 10" and 14".

I think my problem is lack of pine. I need to get a battery chainsaw and cut down a couple of old pines.

Agree. I see that as packing it to tight for a stove start. Half that with smaller pieces. Must add, would create so sort of grate to allow air flow under the fire.


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[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

Thank you for posting those photos. So you pack the stove that full before lighting it? That's surprising. How come there's no wood above the top starter? Is that just to get the draft going? What length do you cut your wood to? It looks like 10" and 14".

I think my problem is lack of pine. I need to get a battery chainsaw and cut down a couple of old pines.

Pine isn't necessary, it's just what I do to avoid having to use any real kindling.

The starter on top is simply to get the draft going. Once it's going up the pipe, I'm good to start lighting the fire.

In terms of packing the stove, ummm...YES. I'm not wasting time burning five sticks and loading again in 7 minutes with a bit larger stuff and then again in 30 with...blah blah blah.

If I'm home in time, I'll grab a pic of it...3 hours later.

* Note: the downstairs started at 62° and, when I left at 4:30 to run some errands, the room the stove is in was 72 and the rest of the downstairs at ~68. That's using the stove's fan. Otherwise, the room it's in would be closer to high-70's and the others at 65 or so. Outside temp = 32° and windy.

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[thinkxingu]

Oh, in terms of length: I cut in 18" lengths but there's always chunks and rounds that are less than that, so I just mix them in to use downstairs or N/S upstairs.

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[thinkxingu]

This is after 3 hours, about 2/3 through the pine. Look at those secondaries!

In about an hour, I'll reload with hardwood and get usable heat until midnight (it's 5 now).



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[SailinAway]

What is the temperature on the flue in the above photo?

[thinkxingu]

Originally Posted by SailinAway

What is the temperature on the flue in the above photo?

The one right above after a few hours or the last one in the first set that shows the thermometer?

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[SailinAway]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

The one right above after a few hours or the last one in the first set that shows the thermometer?

The one right above after a few hours

[thinkxingu]

It was just past center, which on my thermometer is ~500.

It was a cozy night!

[Poor Richard]

Originally Posted by thinkxingu

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Compliments on what's probably the clearest glass I've ever seen on a wood stove

[WinnisquamZ]

Let me second that! Any tricks on keeping it clean? I am windexing every other day. May need to purchase some specific fireglass cleaner


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[thinkxingu]

The glass is only as clean as the burns!

Barring any mistakes–turning down the air too quickly, not getting a strong draft going, or using the wrong wood–it'll be like that most of the season.

If it does get dirty, I just use a piece of newspaper with a little water and ash to clean off anything regular water doesn't.

[WinnisquamZ]

Wet paper towel with ash does work. Believe my dirty glass is from the fat wood starter sticks I use.


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[SailinAway]

Mine comes clean with plain water and a paper towel.