Driveway Surfaces That Would Not Be Considered "Impervious"

[ApS]

Originally Posted by SIKSUKR

"...That rock surely looks like it was put in AFTER the collapse or it would have the dirt sitting on top of the rock..."

Well, you're right. Expect that new rock to be soon covered over with rain-washed mud.

Originally Posted by SIKSUKR

"...I'm not sure what your point is with respect to crushed stone being permeable.If crushed stone gets filled in with dirt and grass then it will end up pretty much the same as if the stone wasn't there right?

That was my point. Crushed stone is a look-good/feel-good, but temporary impermeability fix; alternatively, I like "catch basins" or "holding ponds" as solutions.

I defend tree canopies because my one-acre lot is heavily forested and has done very well to withstand the periodic flooding that starts uphill from a developer's totally-treeless 110 acres.

The best thing I did to stop flooding was a large berm at the top of my driveway, creating a small holding pond. The intact canopy—which includes a dozen white pine trees I planted as a kid—readily slows, then absorbs, any excess runoff to either side.

The three newest buildings in my immediate vicinity have a history of all kinds of soil, silt, and runoff issues—not to mention poorly conceived septic "arrangements".

The biggest house—still unfinished after three years—has a semi-circular driveway of about 500 feet in length (pictured). Rain has eroded the clay embankment (center) and clogged the drains several times since they were installed in 2007. The most important drain, installed uphill late this summer, was itself washed out two weeks later! The builder's answer? Truck in more fill to refill the gullies!

The gray clay from that embankment roils the lake after each rain. The bottom photo is of 10' of normally clear lakewater after a rain. It takes a day or two to see the bottom again.

Crushed rock and drains are far less effective remedies than slowing the velocity of runoff to start with. IMHO.