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Old 02-20-2018, 06:32 PM   #1
Descant
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One reason fireplaces are poor for heating is that chimneys get built on the end of the house, open to cold air. It can take hours to heat the chimney enough to put any heat back into the house. Hence our NE ancestors building the center chimney style house. Same applies to fireplaces that are open on two sides. No reflected heat and no brick back wall to absorb and regenerate heat.
MAXUM is right. For heat, consider a gas fired cast iron stove. Look into venting both exhaust and fresh air intake. If you really want a fireplace, a shallow "Count Rumford" design works well.
If you just want visual effect, I think there are some nice screen savers available.

Yes, get the standby generator now. Site selection is more important than ever if you think you might want to have solar panels, but don't like the look on the front of the house.
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Old 02-21-2018, 09:38 AM   #2
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Default Gas logs

By all means if you plan to have gas logs, have the plumbing and electricity done now! It cost over a thousand dollars to convert my old fireplace.
I have NG and absolutely love the gas logs for aesthetic only. I have a condensing boiler for hot water and backup heat. The Mitsubishi split system handles the rest.

Since I only use the logs sparingly and in low settings, I have the ventless with no problems. The blower is loud so I do not use it.

I used the blower once as backup during a long power outage. The deep cycle battery from the boat with a portable inverter surprisingly gave off enough electricity to keep the house warm.
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Old 12-20-2018, 03:51 PM   #3
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Default Service/Repair for Propane fireplace?

Seems like a good thread to ask this question: Can anyone recommend a good gas/propane fireplace service/repair person? We have a small Mendota (model: Chelsea) propane fireplace (with logs) that does a GREAT job of heating the small room it's located in. However, it recently stopped lighting. The pilot light (constant on) remains lit, but neither the manual switch nor the remote will turn on the flame. I've read up on all the usual possibilities (thermopile, thermocouple, faulty wiring, etc.), but the inner workings of this model seem too tucked in for me to consider fiddling around with anything. We purchased it from Fireside Living in Laconia, but their service person seems stretched too thin (covers 3 stores, they tell me), and has not even called us back yet to schedule an appointment. So...I'm looking for alternatives. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:53 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlake97 View Post
Seems like a good thread to ask this question: Can anyone recommend a good gas/propane fireplace service/repair person? We have a small Mendota (model: Chelsea) propane fireplace (with logs) that does a GREAT job of heating the small room it's located in. However, it recently stopped lighting. The pilot light (constant on) remains lit, but neither the manual switch nor the remote will turn on the flame. I've read up on all the usual possibilities (thermopile, thermocouple, faulty wiring, etc.), but the inner workings of this model seem too tucked in for me to consider fiddling around with anything. We purchased it from Fireside Living in Laconia, but their service person seems stretched too thin (covers 3 stores, they tell me), and has not even called us back yet to schedule an appointment. So...I'm looking for alternatives. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
If it stays lit it's not the thermocoupling. Replace the batteries in the remote and the ones in the receiver. I bet it will work then.
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Old 12-21-2018, 12:46 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlake97 View Post
Seems like a good thread to ask this question: Can anyone recommend a good gas/propane fireplace service/repair person? We have a small Mendota (model: Chelsea) propane fireplace (with logs) that does a GREAT job of heating the small room it's located in. However, it recently stopped lighting. The pilot light (constant on) remains lit, but neither the manual switch nor the remote will turn on the flame. I've read up on all the usual possibilities (thermopile, thermocouple, faulty wiring, etc.), but the inner workings of this model seem too tucked in for me to consider fiddling around with anything. We purchased it from Fireside Living in Laconia, but their service person seems stretched too thin (covers 3 stores, they tell me), and has not even called us back yet to schedule an appointment. So...I'm looking for alternatives. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Another little trick that I've used over the years....get a Q tip and some rubbing alcohol and clean the thermocoupling and thermopile...they get covered in soot from the pilot flame and cause it to shut down.
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Old 12-21-2018, 06:36 PM   #6
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Try this:

Cycle the gas valve knob back and forth through "off", "on" and "pilot" a few times.

Then use the manual switch.
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:15 PM   #7
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Default Gas fireplace yes - watch for spiders

I had a full-size gas fireplace insert installed in my parents' 2-story year-round home in upstate NY years ago when my dad got too old to haul logs inside. Primarily it was for emergency backup heat when the electricity went out, they had some long outages. It works well and produces a lot of heat even with the electricity/blower not working, enough to keep the core of the house around 60 in winter with power out. So good to enjoy and a good backup for outages.

I've looked at a lot of freestanding gas fireplaces also. If there is space and you don't mind the higher price, these probably produce even more usable heat. Noisy blowers are the most annoying part, they use cheap fans that end up rattling after awhile. Getting one with variable blower speed.

Re gas starting issues, the service guy said that if you turn off the gas in summer, spiders like to build nests in the pilot light hole so the pilot light won't ignite in fall. He recommended either leaving the pilot on all summer, or making sure you get it serviced in fall before starting. They should also be serviced at least every other year, not maintenance-free.
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Old 12-21-2018, 07:29 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SummerIslander View Post
I had a full-size gas fireplace insert installed in my parents' 2-story year-round home in upstate NY years ago when my dad got too old to haul logs inside. Primarily it was for emergency backup heat when the electricity went out, they had some long outages. It works well and produces a lot of heat even with the electricity/blower not working, enough to keep the core of the house around 60 in winter with power out. So good to enjoy and a good backup for outages.

I've looked at a lot of freestanding gas fireplaces also. If there is space and you don't mind the higher price, these probably produce even more usable heat. Noisy blowers are the most annoying part, they use cheap fans that end up rattling after awhile. Getting one with variable blower speed.

Re gas starting issues, the service guy said that if you turn off the gas in summer, spiders like to build nests in the pilot light hole so the pilot light won't ignite in fall. He recommended either leaving the pilot on all summer, or making sure you get it serviced in fall before starting. They should also be serviced at least every other year, not maintenance-free.
This post just jogged my memory from my french frying days...

The gas valve may have a vent tube which allows air to enter and exit the non-gas side of the diaphram chamber.

I doubt yours is clogged by fryer grease but a spider condo is quite possible.

I suggest:

Turn the gas valve off.
Find the small diameter vent tube which is open on one end and attached to the gas valve on the other.
Gently unscrew the vent tube from the valve. Be careful as they are soft aluminum.
Blowing through the tube may determine if it is clogged but...
A SPIDER MIGHT BITE YOUR MOUTH CAUSING DISFIGURMENT OR FATAL NECROPSY!
So instead...
Run a pipe cleaner or other small diameter object all the way through the tube to clear any obstruction.
Inspect where the tube meets the gas valve and clean there with a soft object like a Q-tip.
CAUTION: DON'T STICK ANYTHING INTO THE GAS VALVE HOLE BECAUSE YOU COULD PUNCTURE THE DIAPHRAM AND CAUSE A GAS LEAK!
Reinstall the tube.
Test operation.
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Old 12-21-2018, 08:10 PM   #9
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Last fall I tried to start mine and the pilot light wouldn't start. I kept trying for two days and finally it lit. I was just about to call somebody to fix it when it came on. Keep trying before you call someone.
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Old 12-22-2018, 02:19 PM   #10
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Default Thanks for the suggestions!

Both remote and receiver have fresh batteries (so that's not it), but I will try swabbing the thermocouple and thermopile and cycling the 'On, Off, Pilot" dial back and forth before trying the manual start button. Won't be able to get to it for a week or so, but will report back if either of those strategies worked.
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Old 12-22-2018, 05:56 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Overlake97 View Post
Both remote and receiver have fresh batteries (so that's not it), but I will try swabbing the thermocouple and thermopile and cycling the 'On, Off, Pilot" dial back and forth before trying the manual start button. Won't be able to get to it for a week or so, but will report back if either of those strategies worked.
Is the gas valve in the on position? You lite the pilot then you need to turn the gas valve to the on position. It's NOT the thermocoupling... if it was it wouldn't stay lit.
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