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#1 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Laconia NH
Posts: 5,668
Thanks: 3,282
Thanked 1,132 Times in 814 Posts
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I have a Snapper 26" and extremely reliable! Bought in 1982 and still put to good use! Driveway is 50 feet long and two cars wide. I even clear the neighbors every year!
I bought an Arien 28" a few years ago and never liked it. Sold it for half what it is worth as no one wanted a used one. Even if it is only used one winter. Best accessory I bought was the tire chains. Worth it! Snappers are not made by MTD. Last I heard they are USA made including USA parts. My Snapper lawn mower is just as old and still use today! Pays to go to a dealer, service and sales are second to none!
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Someday may never be an actual day. |
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#2 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2009
Posts: 742
Thanks: 35
Thanked 149 Times in 101 Posts
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The Big Box Stores.
Skip the big box stores. Purchase from a local authorized dealer that also has an on sight repair. Yes, warranty work is warranty work. Fine. Just purchase for a local shop. Craftsman. Skip anything Sears. All of the Craftsman snow throwers have engines made in China. Yes, some do have good luck. All Sears warranty work is done in Connecticut. The local Sears repair shops are long gone. I'd also skip any brand made by MTD. Stick with a snow thrower with an engine Made in USA. |
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#3 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Merrymeeting Lake, New Durham
Posts: 2,228
Thanks: 304
Thanked 799 Times in 368 Posts
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Clearly you are already getting opinions that run the gamut. But I'd echo a few consistent ones.
Bigger and more hp is always better. This is an area where some extra money will save you in the long run. Handles bigger, heavier storms better and will last longer due to not straining so much. Not to mention the extra hp you need to expend just using a smaller machine. Not sure I agree with avoid the big box stores. As has been mentioned, most machines are actually made by the same company. The difference is in the bells and whistles that most of the time either don't matter or break soon thereafter. My snowblower is a Noma (made by Murray, used to be the OEM for many, including Sears). I bought it at Home Depot. It is a monster, 12HP, 30" wide. I had a 400+ foot driveway at the time and needed to move a lot of snow. It was the same as the comparable John Deere and Chraftsman models, and made by the same OEM, but not as "fancy" and therefore cheaper. 30+ years later it is still going strong, despite being used for almost every New England snowstorm since that time (27 of them doing that 400' driveway). Started yesterday on the first pull. |
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#4 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Alton Bay
Posts: 293
Thanks: 86
Thanked 78 Times in 49 Posts
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Quote:
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#5 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,946
Thanks: 795
Thanked 1,493 Times in 1,040 Posts
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Do you have to drive backwards to make that work Slick???
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#6 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Welch Island and The Taylor Community
Posts: 3,387
Thanks: 1,260
Thanked 2,148 Times in 983 Posts
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Yes but not too hard to do. A front mount blower would require adding a mid power take off (PTO) $$ and removing the front end loader (FEL). The tractor already had the standard rear PTO and I did not want to lose the use of the FEL. We use the FEL all winter for driveway sanding and other things. The rear mount blower won the trade off. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Slickcraft For This Useful Post: | ||
tis (12-31-2015) | ||
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#7 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Moultonborough
Posts: 3,644
Thanks: 1,718
Thanked 1,662 Times in 861 Posts
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Quote:
Nice rig Slick!! |
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#8 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Thornton's Ferry
Posts: 1,314
Thanks: 67
Thanked 172 Times in 128 Posts
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Tips:
Get a couple packages of "Shear Pins" when you buy your machine. They lock the blades to the turning shaft and will break if you hit something hard. If you replace them with regular screws, you may break a belt or a key-way instead. Both of those jobs are a pain... There are usually two belts in a snow blower. A drive belt (makes the wheels go 'round) and an auger belt (makes the snow go away). You may want to get one of each at time of purchase. Not just so you have them if needed but so you will have the part numbers on the sleeve if you need to get them twice. Power is your friend. I suggest at least 5hp unless you are doing just a little bit. If you get bogged down, shift the drive to a lower gear and stop the drive to allow all the power to be used for clearing the mouthful it has. Start off slow then use the higher gears until you are comfortable with what your machine can do. Don't clear the minimum area. If you have space, do it wide so there will be space for the melt-water to drain. Good luck! PS: I have a "Yardman" from Home Depot. It's identical to most store-brand machines regardless of HP. If anyone needs a copy of the manual send me a PM and I will forward it as an attachment. Last edited by Kamper; 12-31-2015 at 02:08 PM. Reason: extra info |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Kamper For This Useful Post: | ||
pondguy (01-01-2016) | ||
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#9 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 589
Thanks: 134
Thanked 252 Times in 136 Posts
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Here's my entry into the virtual snow blower show. Complete with a heated cabin and tunes.
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#10 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Welch Island and The Taylor Community
Posts: 3,387
Thanks: 1,260
Thanked 2,148 Times in 983 Posts
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Nice LB, I can't get a cab into the garage so I am jealous. I do have chains on all 4 for the winter.
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#11 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,985
Thanks: 246
Thanked 744 Times in 444 Posts
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Best value in a cheap snowblower is a well maintained used Toro from the 80s to mid 2000s, IMO. They are ruggedly built, easy to work on, powered by Tecumseh, have real transmissions, and don't use shear pins. The mechanisms for shifting, chute movement etc. seem far superior to MTD/NOMA stuff.
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#12 | |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Moultonborough
Posts: 765
Thanks: 4
Thanked 260 Times in 172 Posts
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Quote:
During a period last year when I was having trouble getting it started and running well, I did use the electric starter for the first time. I had to remove that first and work in some lubrication, as it had been a couple of decades since it had been used, if at all. The starter itself ran well after that, except when I tried to use it during a power outage. Wondering if the cord had failed, I plugged a light into it, which is when I felt really stupid, as I had known the power was out before I went out to move snow. Thinking that the carburetor might be gunked up from ethanol fouling, I replaced the carburetor, which it turns out was not the problem. Later, in troubleshooting a failed clutch linkage spring, I found a small spot on a wire connecting to the on/off key switch that had been rubbing on a threaded rod connected to the forward speed lever over the years. There was an intermittent grounding of the electrical system, and that was the source of all the trouble. It starts and runs well again now. Although the carb didn't need replacing after all, I've taken to shutting off the gas valve at the tank and letting the engine run through whatever is left in the bowl. Over the years, I've replaced the drive friction wheel and a couple of belts. Parts are still available for it, so I've no particular reason to get something newer. My only complaint is that with very wet snow, practically slush, the chute clogs, and I have to shut down and clean the chute. Any wetter and I have to get out the shovel. |
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#13 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Bow
Posts: 1,874
Thanks: 521
Thanked 308 Times in 162 Posts
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I bought a 10HP (Tecumseh), 24" MTD at Sam's Club back in 1997 for $697. I used it until 2012. It handled everything I threw at it, and only busted 1 shear pin. I sold it for $200, and it always started on the first pull.
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Getting ready for winter! |
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#14 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 273
Thanks: 119
Thanked 62 Times in 40 Posts
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A few tips That I'm sure most know, but if it helps one person ....
I have an old hunk of Parrifin wax that I use to rub down the shoot and auger area. I have also used Pam, but get questioned by the wife at dinner time. (ONCE I went and got the cold can from outside and when she pushed the button, it just sputtered and dripped down the can )Always clean the machine when your done, no matter how tired or late you are. Lost 2 hours last year because the wheel axels were frozen. Heat gun on mid temp made me nervous near the gas. On wet heavy stuff turn the shoot in the same direction as your discharge auger rotates, since it's all the same direction it clogs less. Not always convenient but neither is the snow in the first place. I've had 2 Ariens and very happy with both. I help a friend that has a horse farm and clears over a acre each storm, all grass, dirt or crushed stone; she has a 24" Honda for the tight spaces and I really like it. For the bulk of the yard she has a Honda tractor with a 40" blower on the front. Unfortunately they stopped making them years ago, we had to go to NJ last spring to buy a used blower attachment, we limped through last year, but only with the help of the service guy at the Honda dealer in Manchester. Can't say enough nice things about him. |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Dad sold the C * C For This Useful Post: | ||
pondguy (01-03-2016) | ||
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#15 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Thornton's Ferry
Posts: 1,314
Thanks: 67
Thanked 172 Times in 128 Posts
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Last year I was lazy and that happened to my augers. By an odd twist of fate, I had a spare snow-blower on hand and whenever my primary machine had a 'casualty' I was able to switch to a functional unit. This year, my wife 'loaned' #2 to some friends who moved to a place where they have to do their own cleanup. I really hope they look at Craigslist sometime in the next 9 months!
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#16 |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 2,985
Thanks: 246
Thanked 744 Times in 444 Posts
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My neighbor has a B3030 with the front mount blower. Really slick setup. Envious... That said, it seems to waste a lot of power throwing the snow quite far (I'd estimate it at 80 feet). I would have designed it for less distance and more volume so you could go a little faster.
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