Backup Generators

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by brk-lnt

It's also relatively easy to have the generator power input be remote from the transfer panel/switch. Depending on the distance, it would determine what gauge of wire you need.

So, you can have the generator on the back deck in operation, have a proper hook up outlet for it right there, and then have the transfer switch next to your main panel.

Because you only have @ 2000 watts to play with, this is something to think about if you place the inlet box too far away from the panel:

Voltage loss in a wire is synonymous to pressure loss in a pipe. Electric current flows in a wire, just like water in a pipe, and creates a loss. The loss is a function of:

The diameter of the wire - The smaller the diameter, the larger the loss.
The length of the wire - The longer the wire, the larger the loss.
The type of metal used in the wire - The higher the resistance, the larger the loss. Copper and Aluminum wires are the most common types, with copper having the lower resistance.

Voltage Loss is calculated using "OHM'S LAW", as follows:

E = IR

Where:
E is the Voltage Loss, in volts
I is the current flowing through the wire, in amperes
R is the resistance of the wire, in ohms

[jetskier]

First, the losses in the cable reduce the overall available power to load (as pointed out in the prior post). Second, the power goes to heat and too small gauged wire can be a fire hazard. The provided link gives you the resistance of various gauge wire over 1000 feet. Nominally, at 2000 watts the maximum current would be about 18 amps...round up to 20 amps.

Anything larger than 16 gauge will handle the current, but the resistance is 4 ohms. This means that the voltage (V=IR) would be reduced 80 volts across the cable and the power dissipation would be (P=VA) 1600 watts. Not a good day.

0 gauge has a resistance of .0983 ohms for 1000 feet and the voltage drop would be 2 volts, power loss would be 40 watts.

Clearly, you may not need 1000 feet and the numbers reduce proportionately with reduction in length.

I absolutely agree with the prior posts regarding the hookup. I had an electrician install a manual transfer switch. The switch allows me to decide what distribution to power. In addition, it guarantees that I will not back drive the grid and create a hazard for line crew etc... I picked up a 6500 troy built generator for about $900 which will keep my house reasonably covered.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu...es/wirega.html

[NoBozo]

Based on Everyones input HERE..and the old thread on the same subject.. I decided NOT to do my Jury Rig. Today I returned my new Honda EU2000i for the Honda EU2000i "Companion" which has a 30 Amp 125 Volt Locking Connector.

My electrician does not like the 30 amp..125 volt (Twist Lock) output connector. He would prefer a 30 Amp 125/250 Volt connector. Something about phases. Above my paygrade. NOT available at 2000 watts.

My electrical contractor says he can Make It Work for $450/500...Hardware and Labor. I'm going with that. He's coming out Friday to have a look.

I could make my jury rig work..BUT...if I Croak..my wife would be left in the learch. She is not as mechanically/electrically competent as I am. Thanks guys: NB

[brk-lnt]

Originally Posted by NoBozo

He would prefer a 30 Amp 125/250 Volt connector. Something about phases. Above my paygrade. NOT available at 2000 watts.

That is an inverter generator, and most of those only put out single phase, 120V AC.

For the type of transfer switch you'll likely end up with, I don't think a generator capable of 240VAC/dual phase would have made much difference in the wiring. Everything is still getting pulled over to a new sub-panel anyway.

[Rusty]

Originally Posted by NoBozo

My electrician does not like the 30 amp..125 volt (Twist Lock) output connector. He would prefer a 30 Amp 125/250 Volt connector. Something about phases. Above my paygrade. NOT available at 2000 watts.

I would seriously think about getting a bigger generator so that you can use a 30 amp 120/240 connector and then put it on your deck. I don't know how much voltage you would lose by putting it on your deck but I'm sure your electrician can calculate that out for you. The electrician should be able to do the hookup for the same price.

Anyway, glad that you are not going into an outlet (one way street) to get your electrical needs.

[SIKSUKR]

Electricity could care less which way it travels...to or from an outlet.The only concern is the amps(load) and the wire size.If your outlet circuit is a 20 amp breaker and the gen only puts out 20 then the protection will work just fine.The main concern I have with backfeeding through an outlet(and I've done it) is twofold.You need to make a suicide cord meaning having a plug on both ends.?The danger is obvious one if grabs on to the blades while the other end is energized.The other is backfeeding to the main grid.I backfeed directly to my main panel through a double pole breaker.I have since installed a simple device that won't let you turn that breaker on until the main is off.Very inexpensive and perfectly code acceptable.

[dpg]

Who makes the quietest generator? Anyone own a "quiet model" they're happy with? I have a neighbor in ma with a Home Depot special that could wake the dead.

[ApS]

Originally Posted by dpg

Who makes the quietest generator? Anyone own a "quiet model" they're happy with? I have a neighbor in ma with a Home Depot special that could wake the dead.

A family member has an RV with a very quiet generator—runs it all night long—yet it has NO muffler!

Upon setting up, he takes a straight pipe, attaches it onto the exhaust and runs it straight up above the roofline of his RV. The only noise is the normal operating sounds of the engine.

[Belmont Resident]

Originally Posted by Rusty

Because you only have @ 2000 watts to play with, this is something to think about if you place the inlet box too far away from the panel:

Voltage loss in a wire is synonymous to pressure loss in a pipe. Electric current flows in a wire, just like water in a pipe, and creates a loss. The loss is a function of:

The diameter of the wire - The smaller the diameter, the larger the loss.
The length of the wire - The longer the wire, the larger the loss.
The type of metal used in the wire - The higher the resistance, the larger the loss. Copper and Aluminum wires are the most common types, with copper having the lower resistance.

Voltage Loss is calculated using "OHM'S LAW", as follows:

E = IR

Where:
E is the Voltage Loss, in volts
I is the current flowing through the wire, in amperes
R is the resistance of the wire, in ohms

Having spent 20 years in the semiconductor industry as a repair tech then field service engineer before starting my own business it has been a long time since I've had to use or even heard ohms law mentioned.