Quote:
Originally Posted by Biggd
If you're going to cut a 20" tree then you should have a saw at least 20" if not bigger.  |
Edit: get the biggest bar reasonable.
Original diatribe: If felling, the front wedge and back cut only need to be 1/3 the depth of the tree, so a 16" works fine.
If bucking, most people do 1/2 then flip to finish, so they're not burying the bar in the ground. A little maneuvering from front to back at the beginning of the cut easily allows a 16" bar.
OP: this is a whole can of worms, but there are two options: a "homeowner" or "pro" saw. In either case, get the 16" (or, preferably, 18").
Homeowner options: Stihl MS251 or Echo/Husqvarna equivalent.
Pro option: Stihl MS261 or Husqvarna equivalent (Echo doesn't really make a "pro" version—they're all landscape quality).
Which you buy depends a lot on how much, how often, and how long you'll use it. I process wood for a couple weeks once a year once I have lined up enough to scrounge. I burn ~2 cords/year and have never paid for wood.
I bought a Stihl MS361 with an 18" bar a decade ago that is the perfect machine—starts every time, tons of power, and perfect size bar makes whatever I do efficient.
A couple thoughts: a higher power: weight ratio will make the work less difficult and more efficient, making it safer. Accidents happen when getting tired or cutting corners.
A chainsaw is one of the tools that is worth paying more for—if short-term, you'll make your money back selling it, if long-term, it'll be reliable.
Use canned fuel without ethanol. For the extra cost, you won't have to worry about lines drying out or seals swelling.
Wear chaps, steel-toe boots, eye and ear protection, and reliably grippy gloves.
Godspeed!
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