Quote:
Originally Posted by SailinAway
I just measured the Englander 13. The maximum log length north to south is 10". I mentioned early on that short logs are useful, but most people don't have such short logs. Either they're not interested in cutting them that short or whoever they buy wood from isn't willing to cut them that short. Personally I find that short logs make a huge difference with this stove.
Over my objections, an "expert" built a fire in my woodstove the other day by packing it initially east to west with large logs and minimal kindling, closed the door after one minute, and closed the damper halfway about 5 minutes later "because this is how you get a long fire and save wood." I watched as smoke filled the house and the fire died an agonizing death over the next hour.
I have since carefully read the manufacturer's instructions for building a fire in the Englander 13. The instructions correspond exactly with my experience and lead to success. Nowhere do the instructions mention heavy initial loading or closing down the damper for a long overnight burn. Some quotes from the manual:
--"Adding large pieces at the early stages will only serve to smother the fire."
--"When shutting down the stove, fully open the air control. This will allow chimney temperatures to remain as high as possible for as long as possible. Remember, cold chimney temperatures create creosote."
--"Burn hot fires. For most appliances, a smoldering fire is not a safe or efficient fire." [per EPA]
--"DO NOT install a flue pipe damper or any other restrictive device in the exhaust venting system of this unit." [Also from the EPA in the Englander 13 manual. Reason not specified---assume it's to reduce smoke emissions?]
So I conclude that burning wood is a balancing act between (1) getting the heat you need, (2) for the period you need it for, (3) conserving wood, (4) fire safety, namely, preventing creosote from forming, and (5) protecting the environment. Some of those goals conflict. I think preventing creosote has to be the priority at all times.
With the Englander 13 the challenge is getting heat for the period you need it for. I don't believe it's possible to heat solely with this small stove in our climate. Oil is currently providing heat overnight in my house. A power outage when it's 20 below would required tending the stove frequently day and night.
That's my experience to date. I'm sure there are other valid perspectives and wood-burning strategies, so I'll continue learning about this.
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Creosote is not at all a concern for anyone 1. Burning dry wood and/or 2. Having the chimney cleaned every year or two.
You will not burn enough wood in one, and probably two or three, years to build up a worrying amount of creosote. I go literally 3-4 years between cleanings and still end up with close to zero residue.
The reason creosote is a thing is twofold: inefficient fireplaces and moist wood, both of which should be/are a problem of the past.
If I have a chance in the next few days, I'll start a fire in my 13 and share some pics.
One last thing: 100% wood stove heat is absolutely challenging, but the 13 was never designed to be the central heating source of anything save the smallest of homes. It'll heat a room or small area fine, though, especially if well insulated. The 30? Now that thing's legit.
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