[ApS]

Originally Posted by DickR

I saw a lengthy crack, with rust on it and some running down.

Some normal manufacturing imperfections in cast iron will appear as cracks when they are not. See if that "lengthy crack" appears bulged from the rest of the surface.

Originally Posted by DickR

I guess two questions not resolved are whether that crack could be "repaired" and if there is any internal damage. I may put a bucket under the outdrive, or use muffs, and run the engine. I don't know if that would be definitive.

Otherwise options are long block with more labor for switching parts or new complete engine, at more cost but less labor (but more overall cost).

1) Cast iron block walls are not particularly thick. The "lengthy crack", with "rust running down" is probably the only damage—IMO.

First—cold—check for water in the oil sump, then upon running it for a couple of minutes. After it gets to operating temperature, water turns invisibly to steam—so a short "run" is enough. As long as the drive isn't engaged—forward or reverse—you can use a garbage can for your testing. You'll be surprised at how much pollution will appear in and on the testing water. .

2) Once thoroughly wire-brushed, cast iron is easily "brazed" using a brass filler. It's my guess that it's just the water jacket involved: if so, brazing could fix it indefinitely.

It's an easy process for a beginner—easier than soldering—and cheap! I'd give brazing with Mapp® gas a try. Exhaust pressures would be another matter—but even there, brazing could last a full season.

Freeze damage is different than damage from overheating. Here are two links that discuss cracks in cast iron blocks. I don't know why they're Government Motors engine blocks being discussed.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/te...ked-block.html

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php?p=3795858

Have we gotten so silly in this day and age, that we are insuring ourselves from our own stupidity?

PM me about insurance fraud.