Lakes Region VW/Audi
 

I noticed that the Lakes Region VW/Audi dealer in Guilford has an empty lot. There is a for lease sign. Does anyone know what happened to the dealership? Did they move to a new location?

About three months ago, VW-America moved the Audi component of the Lakes Region VW-Audi to a dealership in Texas that has a better demographic for the high priced Audi. And very recently, the local owner of Lakes Region VW sold it to the AutoServ multi- brand business in Tilton, directly across from the Tilton Wal-Mart.

Kip & Joe's
 

I use to do a lot of business with Kip and Joe's. Lakes Region VW/Audi was not as friendly and service went downhill. :(

Autoserv are the worst place I have ever been to. I was sorry to give them my phone number when I went in to check on a truck. They have been bothering me for two frigging years! :mad:

As long as we are talking cars here, let me throw this question out to the local reading audience.

I'm driving a '99 Ford Contour 4cyl-5 speed-125 hp w/ 173k miles and I have been told by VIP-Laconia that both front ball joints need to be replaced, and that it takes 4 1/2 flat rate hours @ $80/hr, plus parts to fix it. Despite the loose & wobbly ball joints, the steering wheel shimmies just a little when driving cruise control Rt 93 up to 63-mph. Above about 65-mph, the steering wheel vibrates/shimmies too much and it does not seem too safe. The NH inspection sticker is good through September 2010!

VIP charges $80/flat rate hour. Anyone know where's a decent local repair that charges about $40/flat rate hour? Probably, a poor NH town like Plymouth, Ashland, or Bristol would have a forty dollar /hour car repair that is good to go for this car.

Any car repair suggestions would be appreciated!:)

They always used to say if the repair costs more than 50% of what the car is worth, scrap it. I can't tell you where to take the car for a cheap fix but I would PARK the car until I decided what to do. You probably don't need the front suspension to collapse and jam itself up into the wheel well...along with the liability if you damage someone else during such an event. :(

As soon as you spend $800 on this job, how long before something else breaks? I'd look for a used replacement. :) NB

There's got to be a competent mechanic out there who still works at the old forty dollar rate probably because his small business doesn't have the visibility of VIP-Laconia. I believe that Lakes Motors, in what used to be the McGreevy Buick -Cadillac-Mazda location and who lost their Jeep dealership in the Chrysler melt-down, charges something like $55/flat rate hour and they have Chrysler certified mechanics left over from their Chrysler-Jeep daze.

When times are tough like right now, there's probably good mechanics willing to work for less just to be working. Besides, Meredith is too hilly for me to be riding a bicycle.:D

Someone who should know said that a fast cheap quik-fix for loose ball joints is to caulk up the ball & joint socket with black vinyl butyl roof repair caulking into the tight space in between the ball & socket, and it would act like a gripper-shock absorber to tighten up the flex action. Anyone ever try that one?

There is a new guy in Melvin Village. Ed's Garage. try him. Local. Might be willing to work with you. BTW If your car is shimmying at any speed the car is unsafe. If one of those ball joints lets go at 60mph you could kill not only yourself but someone else. It doesn't matter what the inspection sticker says.
Just trying to keep you around for a while longer.:D

Maybe you got the wrong nuts on your ball joints!!!!
 

:eek:factory suspension recall for wrong ball joint nuts.
http://www.automotive.com/1999/12/fo...lls/index.html

Thanks very much for this recall notice on the front end ball joints suspension. Will call to see if my car is on the hit list.

There is a ad in the Weirs Times saying just what your looking for.

John's Auto Service, $50 Shop rate. 744-6369

Hope this helps.

Your making them worse and worse driving the car. Like other people have stated there's also a safety factor. If you don't care about yourself that's fine just don't hit someone else. ;)

My Take: This is NOT a Ford Recall. This is a Federal Mogal recall of "AFTERMARKET" kits that you either bought at NAPA, etc. or had some garage install after November 2007. So this would not apply to FLLs car which presumably has the Original 1999 ball joints. Nb :look:
-----------------------------------------------------------

Recall Date
APR 14, 2008


Model Affected
1999 FORD CONTOUR


Description
FEDERAL MOGUL IS RECALLING 6,903 "AFTERMARKET BALL JOINT ASSEMBLIES SHIPPED BETWEEN NOVEMBER 9, 2007 AND MARCH 26, 2008", WHICH MAY HAVE BEEN PACKAGED WITH INCORRECT NUTS. THE PART NUMBERS PACKAGED WITH INCORRECT NUTS ARE: K7147, K7329, K8683, AND 104353. THESE PARTS WERE MADE FOR USE ON THE VARIOUS VEHICLES LISTED ABOVE. (Quotes and Italics are mine. NB)


Consequence
THE NUTS INCLUDED IN THE PACKAGING FOR THESE BALL JOINT ASSEMBLIES ARE MISSING THE INTENDED PREVAILING TORQUE (SELF-LOCKING) FEATURE. IF THE INCORRECT NUT WAS TO BECOME LOOSE, THE JOINING MEMBERS MAY LOOSEN LEADING TO A SEPARATION OF THE BALL JOINT. THIS MAY RESULT IN LOSS OF VEHICLE CONTROL, POSSIBLY RESULTING IN A VEHICLE CRASH.


Remedy
FEDERAL MOGUL WILL NOTIFY OWNERS AND REPLACE THE PARTS FREE OF CHARGE. THE RECALL BEGAN ON MAY 22, 2008. OWNERS CAN CONTACT FEDERAL MOGUL AT 877-489-6659.


Potential Units Affected
6903

Called just once yesterday at about 1:30 and got a recorded message; "Sorry, no one here right now, please call back later." So, will try again?

Use the internet to your advantage. I will only use OEM parts in my vehicles. Pick any make of vehicle and do a search for "Ford OEM parts".

There are a lot of big dealerships around the country who sell OEM parts much cheaper than what you would pay retail. You can often find the OEM parts end up at the same price or even a smidge cheaper than the aftermarket VIP, NAPA parts.

Example: I got my Accord front rotors and pads (Honda OEM) with shipping at a cost of $175 and I have a deal with a local shop who will use the parts I provide. I just don't get a warranty. Dealer charges $475 for the job. I got it done for parts + $75 for him to install. Total cost was $250 using OEM pads and rotors. 1/2 the cost of the dealer...... I've got several examples of this.

Paying to have 3 vehicles on the road I save a lot of money doing it this way. Go ask the local guy if you provide the parts if he will install them. Most will if they are OEM but some will not.

What does this mean? Are you opening it?

Well....whadayaknow....looks like Kip & Joe are back tuning VW bugs at the KarKraft building next to Wal-Mart......in today's LaDaSun...German Motosports....or something?