Snowblower Trouble
 

My 10-year old, 24" TroyBilt went "no start and a flat tire" yesterday so's now I got to fix two new repair items.

The flat tire actually has a spare that was installed about three years ago, and it went flat at the valve stem, and the stem is all crooked? Will not hold air, and can hear the air leaking out.

Will not start using electric starter...... it cranks and cranks but will not spark plug ignite ..... has a full quart tank of good fresh gasoline ...... had not used it in one month or so ..... previously, it worked great with a good tire.

Am thinking the carburetor bowl could be full of frozen water, or the fuel line could be full of frozen water, or the fuel line and primer bulb needs to be replaced?

Pressing on the primer bulb repeatedly does not seem to be moving any fuel into the carburetor because that can be heard and noticed thru the primer bulb.

Is there a snowblower doctor in the house? Anyone got any suggestions?

I now have like three different old snowblowers that do not work, an Ariens, a Craftsman, and a TroyBilt ...... and yesterday, I ended up having to use a roof rake and a shovel for 2-3 hours which actually worked very good, plus I flattened out a lot of snow by backing the car, back & forth, a lot, all over!

For a roof rake that works and works ...... get an all aluminum roof rake including the aluminum puller blade ...... and forgetabout the wimpy plastic puller blades ...... I got mine at the Meredith transfer station - metal picking area ...... did major transplant surgery on the very long handle ..... and it is a winner!

Ya know .... maybe I should go back to the Meredith town transfer station and look around for another snowblower? ..... :rolleye1:

I think I might put some HEET water out or seafoam in the tank and slosh it around, and let it sit for a little bit, then use a sniff of starter fluid and scrape clean of the spark plug to see if it will fire up.
also move it to someplace warm while sitting

tire can deal with later, the stem might have lost it seat, spray with a little lubricant and see if you can get it back in place

The stem is not a stem ..... it's a replacement tube from Lowe's used to fix the leaky tire seal from three years ago .... and the tire got torqued around on the rim or something and the tube now has a leak at the tube stem, which is part of the tube.

Probably, moving it into the heated kitchen would be a good move ...... in the cold on Sat-Sun-Mon am thinking the moisture inside the tank get condensed into water/ice and never thawed out, yet?

Is it safe to use a painters heat gun on a gas machine like this ..... cause then it would be outside ..... is probably ok as long as it is a safe 12" away or something?

Maybe some noodles will fix it.:D

Maybe time to bite the bullet and buy a brand new one in March when they mark them all down to unload them for the season! New tires, a running motor, and no need to worry about it for many years.

Some carbs have a little spring-loaded pushbutton in the bottom of the bowl that when depressed drains the contents, on others you can unscrew the retaining bolt in the center of the bowl. I'd be curious to see what's in there. Drain some and see if it smells like gas...if not, drain it all and reprime, making sure that the fuel is actually turned on! :-)

Ethanol??
 

FLL, when you say it has a full tank of fresh gas, was that fresh gas in there when it was last used successfully or did you add it right before this last attempt?
First guess is an ethanol related issue. I've had them before due to not summerizing my snow blower properly. Lesson learned.

Water in the system is a real possibility, also due to ethanol. I'd do what AC2717 and Mark said first.
Get it warm and try. Maybe some starter fluid as well. If it starts with the fluid and then dies it might be time to drain the carb and possibly clean out any varnish in the ports from bad gas.
Also, there are plenty of used snow blowers on Craigslist these days.

My former business was a large lawn & garden dealership in Concord, and after selling that I went to work for six years as the NE rep for a large manufacturer. Without exaggeration I have sold well over a half a million snowblowers.
The most common problem by far is stale gas in the carb bowl and blocking of the fuel pickup ports, but it is also usually an easy fix. These instructions won't apply to all engine manufacturers but they will apply to most;
1. Turn off the gas under your tank. 2. Remove the nut at the bottom center of the bowl while holding the bowl up against the bottom of the carburetor. If the issue is just a little ice or dirt you may not need to drop the bowl and it will hang stuck under the o-ring between the bowl and carb. 3. The nut you removed will likely have a pencil lead hole at its base, close to the actually thin faced nut (most often 9/16 wrench). Directly above and at the opposite end of the threaded portion on the "nut" there should be a very small hole. Gas is drawn into the larger bottom hole and then metered to the carb through the upper hole. It is very common for a bit of dirt or varnish to block the upper metered hole and this could be the culprit. Do you see any green buildup at the upper portion of the nut where the threads end? If so you have likely found the problem. To fix it first soak it with some carb cleaner or lacquer thinner, and then poke a small diameter soft wire back and forth through the hole a few times. For most applications the wire for a manila tag is nearly perfect. 3. Put it back together, turn the gas back on and give it 20 seconds or so and hopefully the blower will start right up. If not ..drop it off at Mark Richter's, Wolfeboro Power, or Greenlands.
This instruction also applies to the older engines that has a screw in the nut to adjust the mixture rather than a fixed (and usually too lean) jet. There will still be a lower pickup hole and an upper metering hole. You just need to take the adjustment needle out before running a tag wire through the upper hole, otherwise the operation is the same. To adjust the mixture, warm up the engine for a couple of minutes and then set it at full throttle. Start with the adjustment needle 2.5 turns out and slowly turn it in until the engine is running at it maximum, and then back it out until you just begin to hear a bit of an rpm drop. This should give you you best power and response.

Hopefully, no serious big snow is predicted for today or the next few days which gives me some time to work on it. A 4" plus snowfall would be a problem without a snowblower. Using a shovel and flattening the snow in the driveway and entry area only works with minimal snow. .... :D

Did make a photocopy of the above step by step, specific repair instructions and will get on it, today. Thanks very much, appreciate the good help!

My sense before starting is there's a small chunk of circular ice in the carburetor bowl that's blocking the float and the flow of gas which froze like that during the extreme cold over the last week end?

Except for the rubber tires going flat a few times, replacing skid plates and broken shear pins, the pull cord starter, and reinstalling the black rubber discharge chute after it got blown off this has been a very hardworking and a very reliable snowblower. Bought it new at Lowe's for $550-September sale, about ten years ago. Today's new price is $699, I think?

Noticed TroyBilt now has a similar 24" model with very large wheels that do NOT use inflated rubber tires and has a better designed black rubber discharge chute ....... so ....... if some big snow actually hits and this old one is still broken .... a working snowblower is a must have. The TroyBilt internet specs say it weighs 135-lbs which has got to be an error, as it most likely really weighs 185-lbs. 135-lbs is impossible.

I saw one at Lowes with tall narrow wheels and I wondered if it is not self propelled.

Does one need to push it?

The TroyBilt 24" with the tall, not inflated wheels is a standard self-propelled two-stage. The wheels are about 4" wide with big black rubber treads but not inflated ..... a TroyBilt 2460 ..... weight 195-lbs.


For about the same money, maybe $699 or 799, Lowe's has an unusual single stage with tall, not inflated wheels, an Ariens Crossover about 20"-wide, that is a push it yourself. It says this weighs 200-lb, but this is hard to believe. Look for some big discounts on this model because sales are very slow.

You got that right about ethanol fuel! It's well worth the purchase of non ethanol fuel either in Ossipee, Freedom, Or Wakefield. Otherwise go to HD or Lowes and buy a gallon or 2 of Trufuel. Yeah it might be a bit expensive but whatever you put it in will start!

I get my gasoline almost anywhere, like at Irving, Citgo, or Mobil. With my very reliable but oil consuming 2013-Scion xB, 218k-miles, four original spark plugs, ........ with every eleven gallon gasoline fill-up ......... that there oil dip stick is always down 3/4 to 1-qt thanks to Irwin and Toyota, but that's another story. .... :D

Purposely, I store the gasoline in a small, one gallon gas container, so's it will become empty relatively sooner, and need to be refilled with fresh gas, plus sometime, once in a blue moon, I add some Mystery Oil or some Sta-bil ..... but not too recently? ..... :rolleye2:

I try to keep my small engine gas tanks empty but over the last few months I have had several not running and found the screen inside the gas tank plugged with a gelatinous covering. I guess it just builds up over time because I generally always run them empty before leaving them sit for any length of time.

I use TruFuel every 3 or 4 fills and use Startron in my jugs when I refill. Seems to keep everything happy. TruFuel is a bit pricy (pre-mix or straight), but been using it for 4-5 years and haven't had an ethanol type "issues".

...... today's SuperBowl snow storm, no-snow!
 

So, today is Sunday, February 7, 2021 . almost 9-am and there's something like 1-3" inches snow predicted, temp about 15-degrees, now, and going up.

Have done absolutely nothing to fix the broken snowblower. It's a TroyBilt 2410 except it has a very high ..... $30 ..... quality Ariens cover which says Ariens - King of Snow ..... so with the cover on ...... it looks like an Ariens! ..... (Ariens emoticon here)

For light snow up to 3" or something , I had this large, yellow, funny look'n shovel for about a year now with never using it much ...... an Ames $30 SnoBoss ..... sort of like a snow plow ...... and it has been the boss here ..... for the last two small storms ...... no gasoline, no repairs, lightweight, and no cover needed! ..... :D

Bought an Ariens Pro 28 today. Probably the only thing I've ever just gone in and bought in my life. Thing's pretty awesome.

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Way to go ....... what a great machine ......excellent choice ...... hey, you know for ten dollars you can get a very appropriate 'Ariens vintage snowmobile mask' that looks like it is good to go as a corona virus pandemic face mask!

I have a 28 Deluxe 12.5 HP and I love it.
How many HP is the Pro?Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app

It's about that—they don't really list HP in their literature. My only concern will be the auto-turn. I'm hoping they've worked the kinks out of that.

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I have three broken snowblowers and will be using a SnoBoss snow shovel today. ...... :laugh: ...... thank the snow gods for another very wimpy snow fall ... :laugh::laugh:


It looks like Ariens has a five year warranty for sale via the internet.

Now it is going to snow all the time. Congrats. :laugh:

Snowblower Trouble
 

If you call Ken at Woodman's Fire and Brick, he would probably be happy to give you advice. They are in Wakefield and pretty far for you but I have a TroyBuilt also and he has kept it running like a top. He also tuned up my John Deere riding lawnmower so it operates better than when it came from the factory. I've called him several times and he is always good at giving suggestions.

The power steering really works. I've been a plow guy all my life.
I hated snow blowers because all I remember is the one I had as a youth and it was heavy and always broke down.
Now that I retired I sold the plow and bought this snow blower and I'm pleasantly surprised at how well it works.
The big difference is what use to take me a half hour now takes me 3 hours but I have plenty of time now. :D

It's a super balanced machine, for sure—I'm hoping it holds up like my father's did from the 60's.

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I think the Pro series is much beefier than the Deluxe. It should last a long time.

Fwiw
 

FWIW

I own a Pro 1332 purchased in 2001 at one home and purchased a Deluxe 30 last month for the 2nd home.
I am happy with both machines. The 1332 is a beast nothing it hasn't been able to handle.
The Deluxe 30 is noticeably made of lighter weight steel and the self steer works well.
Have always changed oil and lubricated each year and use Sta-Bil in the fuel a
on a regular basis.
Really can't go wrong with any of the Ariens lineup.

Ya know ..... I musta been outside in the cold yesterday afternoon for two hours wrestling with that TroyBilt 2410, trying to remove the wheel rim from the axle so's I can go take it to a bicycle repair or someplace to get another tube from Lowe's installed, correctly.

Instead of using four lug nuts like any normal small utility wheel, this snowblower wheel slides onto the axle with about 4" of axle to wheel internal contact and it must be totally fused together with rust.

Removing the single 3/8" bolt was easy, but removing the wheel was impossible even with a 3' crowbar and a block of wood and WD-40 and then with expensive PB-blaster lube ..... nothing happening!

Next plan: get that green Slime for tubes, which I've never used, and give that a try for inflating the tube, inside the tire ........ it's Slime-It to the rescue ....... stay tuned.

Green Slime
 

Hey FLL. Let me know if the green slime works. I have seen it at Lowes and I wondered how good it was. I heard it was good at patching leaks.

I have a trailer tire that I want to rejuvenate!

Ok ..... will let you know ....... they make Slime for tires ...... and ..... Slime for tubes ....... you unscrew the little valve stem core ...... remove the spring core ........ attach the bottle of slime ...... roll the wheel around to distribute the Slime ...... and then inflate tire or tube ......and supposedly, it fills and stops the leak or leaks.

This tube in my snowblower tire has a leak at the tube stem, and the stem comes out at a bent wrong 45-degree angle ......... stay tuned ....... forum world! :eek:

As long as the last three storms were very wimpy snow, this broken snowblower has not been a problem, but today it is saying 2-4" and it's snowing right now! .... :eek: ..... time will tell?

Green Slime works pretty awesome...in some situations. I used it for a very slow leak in my tractor tire with success, but I had no luck with it in two of L'il Buddy's go-kart tires with dinged up wheels.

Good luck, FLL!

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Solution...
 

In the front yard, I've got a Greenworks battery-powered wheelbarrow lying on its side. I'm working on it where it's in the warm sun. It's taken five hours--over two days--to get both tires (under warranty) off their keyed axles. (The tires had been shedding their tread lugs after only two years). Here's how I finally did it:

I drilled two holes through each steel rim. The holes line up with holes in a heavy piece of steel scrap.

Quarter-inch bolts were run through each hole, to act like an expensive gear-puller. Using three different "rust-buster" sprays, the rims finally broke free! A one-pound sledge hammer helped speed the process with each [alternate] tightening of the bolts.

Like most manufactured products from China, the quality of steel is poor. The shaft and nut will need filing and grinding to replace them properly. As the wheel slowly backed off, I centered a steel BB atop the shaft. That one move was a huge help in centering the puller's efforts.

In your case, those wheels, WITH new tubes and tires, can be bought for about $5 each, so they're worth sacrificing.

One warrantied tire is on "back order". :rolleye2:

My new replacement tires will get a coating of paint, and will use 3M adhesive to keep the tires from rotating within the rims. Inflated, that'll keep the valve stems aligned--and away from damage. :cool:

have you tried flex-tape?

I have a 30” Platinum. Probably 5 years old. Probably one of the last years they offered a Briggs engine. I had a choice with Ariens engine or larger Briggs. And got the Briggs.

My only complaint is it drools. And I have to make two passes.
They even offered a retro fit bar you Mount inside above the blade to fix the drool issue for the Pro series but not for any other series. I bought pro one and adapted it. It helps a little. It’s like the blade rotates to fast and spits the snow out in front.

They keep changing the AutoSteer method. Not sure if I have the latest. But it works good. Lot of complaints of not tracking straight with some versions.

I bought these really nice skids for mine from a 3rd party.

Are the skids plastic/synthetic? I've heard changing over from metal can make a big difference.

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..... nothing runs like a SnoBoss snow shovel!
 

Ya know ...... with three different broken snowblowers ...... this TroyBilt-24 ..... a Craftsman 22" single stage w/ a Honda engine ..... and an Ariens-24 .... I can pick one to fix myself depending on the fix or else roll it into the trailer and take it over to the Small Engine Barn, Fairgrounds Rd, Campton, .... two miles off Exit 26.

So many choices here what with an inventory of broken snowblowers?

This week ahead looks like it will/could be the coldest week for the entire winter.

And, nothing runs like a 26" SnoBoss snow shovel! ..... :D

Ya know ..... think I'll go take a long three mile walk and forgetabout the whole thing till tomorrow. If that snow don't get removed today, it will definitely still be here tomorrow ..... is the way I look at it! ..... :D

Maybe the shop would fix one for a donation of another. That assumes, of course, that they're in decent shape.

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Excellent suggestion ..... a two-fer one-fer ...... like who wants just one reliable snowblower when, my way, I get to have three broken snowblowers! .... :D

The SnoBoss is a funny look'n thing ..... it looks like an old witches broom, or something.

I bought them from a member of this forum. Not sure about avilability.

https://www.snowblowerforum.com/foru...nowblowers.10/

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...3a928c_b_d.jpg

Those look like extra long skid shoes made with polyurethane as opposed to steel.

Here's a polyurethane skid shoe with a roller wheel .... http://www.amazon.com/arnold-univers.../dp/B00PBGM7RM ..... $32.57/2 ..... video link worth watching! ....... is somewhat similar to an Alaska airplane with landing gear skid/wheels designed for snow covered, not paved landing fields ..... or something!

Attention Moose Jaw Airport ...... this is the TroyBilt 2410 ...... coming in for a super smooth landing on your half snow, half pavement, half dirt, half grass runway ...... is similar to that Plymouth NH Municipal Airport...... a flying snowblower ..... Roger that!!! ...... :D

The ones I have are definitely steel. Those ones on Amazon you linked I doubt would work good. Definitely the opposite of mine. The idea of mine is to glide over cracks and seams. Ever go cruising along and catch a crack like where driveway meets road. The ones you linked just give more opportunities to catch on something. And I bet that wheel often does not roll. It's just gonna jam up with ice. The risk with mine is it can ride up on the snow and go sledding. But they have been fine.

Those wheel ones get great reviews on the forum you linked to, but I think I'm just gonna grab the Ariens poly ones. The steel ones definitely "grab" a bit even on my (mostly) smooth driveway.

Have you tried poly ones? I like the shape of yours, but the metal still might not be as good as poly for sliding.

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mswlogo,
I suggest flipping those skids around so the shoe is under the snowblower rather than sticking out to the side. That way the corner of your cutting edge will likely be shielded from catching. The only issue with this is you will need to have a bit of clearance under the cutting edge. We set most of the snowblowers leaving our shop by placing a ~12" long piece of plywood under the center of the scraper and then setting the skids down flat to the ground before tightening the carriage bolts to hold them.
Two other quick tips that might prove useful since it is the season. Before starting the snowblower hold down on the auger drive lever and pull the engine over slowly with the recoil rope once or twice. If it pulls over without any jamming you will know that the auger and fan are free spinning and nothing has frozen up with ice. Plus you will have dipped the rod and crank journal in the oil before starting a cold engine.
Second, always clear the snow plowed into your driveway by the Town before doing the rest. First reason is that is usually the heaviest and least passable, second is that is where all the salt will be and as you clear the rest of the driveway you flush it out of your machine.

Interesting point about the salt. By luck it’s generally done about half way through the job. So clean snow is passed through before it’s put away.

I always try to clean excess snow before putting it away to avoid freeze ups. It is in a detached shed. The blower has never frozen on me on any blower in 30+ years. The auger has maybe half a dozen times. But always freed itself with a couple quick pulses.

Not sure about flipping the shoes. I’ll have a look to see what your referring to. They have been on their since 2015 and really no mishaps. Really not much to catch on. I’d be concerned with raising the cutting edge any more than it is now and I think I set it much lower than I think you’re suggesting. I forget what recommendation I used besides my eyeball and gut. Might have done some trial and error too. Stock shoes are too stubby

Here are the skids I have. You do see some pics with them flipped in, but most are out.

http://snowblowerskids.com/armorskids-video/

Hey y'all ..... here's my plan .....think I'll retire the TroyBilt-24 for the winter, and haul the Ariens-24 which I have never used over to that Small Engine Barn,
close to the Plymouth NH Municipal Airport and tell them to throw a tune-up at it.

Ariens is the KING of snow, and the Small Engine Barn in Plymouth has a sign on the front of their barn that says "Ariens Service Center."

Is this a plan ..... or, is this a plan! Ariens is the KING of snow, you know! The more I think about it, this is a hell of a plan ...... plus I won't be fiddl'n with a broken sno-mo out in the deep freeze.

The next snow storm could well be a big one!

if they have the time and space to do the work, I would call ahead

when and if you get the wheel off the axle, don't be afraid to clean the rust off and load the axle up with Anti-Seize!

Try putting a rachet strap around the tire to seat it to the rim while inflating (or sliming).

Now I know that's what I should have done instead of taking it to a bicycle store and getting them to install a spare from Lowe's. Turns out the bicycle guy put the snowblower tire back on the rim with the tread direction going backward, which is how its been now for three years although it doesn't seem to make any difference.

The Small Engine Barn has a very nice blonde lady and we had a great conversation about my Ariens 24. I go ..... it's in totally excellent condition with good paint, and no rust because the prior owner kept it in a heated garage in Brentwood. And then I say it's either a 2006 or 2007 . And she goes "2006 and 2007 were some of their best years for Ariens!" ..... :D

For $89 the Small Engine Barn will replace the oil, spark plug and hit any grease fittings with a grease gun and adjust the belts and small control pulleys Any replacement belts are extra money for the parts.

I can do all this stuff with one hand tied behind my back and blind folded, while outdoors in the deep freeze, plus $89 is about $70 too rich for me. I'm a $19.95 type of a customer.

[emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787][emoji1787]Keep that shovel handy.[emoji106]Sent from my SM-G950U using Winnipesaukee Forum mobile app

Here's 'How to replace the valve stem on a tubeless tire' ......www.boostatv.com/replace-valve-stem/ ...... so, once the weather warms up a little like up to 25-30 w/ no wind, will try to remove the leaky inner tube, install a new valve stem, and reverse the tread direction on the tire ...... and return the $6.43 bottle of Slime back to Walmart ..... will give me something to do do. ...... :D

I wonder if I can do this without removing the rim and tire from the TroyBilt 2410 snowblower? ..... :D

Misaligned Valve Stem?
 

If you're replacing a tube, you don't have a tubeless tire. :confused:

Chances are, the tire "body"slipped on the rim, and the valve stem became misaligned. A strap wrench can restore the original position, FWIW.

Bought it new from Lowe's and it originally had two rims with tubeless snowblower tires. One tire went flat a number of times, maybe five times, so's I removed the rim & tire, got a tube from Lowe's, took it to Rhino Bike Works in Plymouth where one bike guy installed the tube except he put the tire back on with the tread going backwards. Labor charge - $10.00. The backwards tread doesn't really make any difference but now the tube is flat at the tube stem, after maybe three years use.

Plan to retire the TroyBilt 24 for now and take a good look at the Ariens 24 for now because only Ariens is The King of Snow.

Meanwhile, this SnoBoss 26" shovel is definitely getting it done very very well, and with a lot less noise than a snowblower.

http://www.true-temper.com/tool/snow...25300-snoboss/ .... with a $30 SnoBoss, you become one with your driveway! ..... :laugh: ..... is a combination pusher - lifter - drag-er .... with two handles for balanced lifting and an upper long handle that presses against your chest just like a hard pushing, farm donkey.

......... with the SnoBoss ....... you become the BOSS! .......... :banana:

Don't Give Up on The Troybuilt!
 

You don't have to retire the Troybuilt—you just have to re-tire it. :D A new tire and rim can be purchased for less than that can of Slime.

"Our" problem was getting the wheel rim off the rusted axle. (I had two!)

I drilled two holes, using the valve stem hole as the first. (Drilling all the way through). Then, using 6-inch long bolts and washers, attached a rugged piece of metal. Then put the nut about 7 threads deep, proceeded to tighten the two bolts against the axle. One axle took a few minutes, but the other wouldn't budge. The 1/2-inch piece of metal bent towards the end of the day. :eek2:

I sprayed it with all the penetrants I had, and let it soak overnight. With the help of a hammer next morning, I was able to remove the rim. :) (Under warrantee). It's a little bent-up from the process, but the Greenworks factory is sending me a new one. In the smaller sizes (like mine), standard mounted wheel rims and tires can be found on the Internet for $3 or $4. :eek:

Your Troybuilt could be a bigger rim, and would be priced accordingly.

Here are the tools:

I think APS & FLL are brothers from a different mother.[emoji1787][emoji23][emoji1787][emoji23]

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:laugh::laugh::laugh:
I think so too. I think if they met they would be great friends!1

At two below zero, is just too cold to be work'n on a snowblower. Is also too cold for it to snow, as well. It has to be about 25-30 and not much wind before I get serious about fixing any snowblower.

Today, February 13, could possibly be the coldest day for the whole winter ..... is a cold one.

"Good" news for FLL?
 

The only "good" news, FLL, is that you couldn't snowblow the 3" of slop we're dealing with today even if you wanted to. Heading out to do some spot shoveling. If you want to help, shoot me a PM! You seem to know your way around a shovel. :D

I thought that might be the case when I went out late morning with a shovel (in M'boro). I realized quickly that the stuff was so heavy and stiff, yet barely an inch total, that I'd be hours trying to do it that way. So I got the snowblower out, and it handled that stuff quite well, scraping under the crust on top to the wet snow beneath and throwing the mix 30' away and into the woods. I still had to take the wide push shovel to the last 1/8" of slop left behind, so it wouldn't freeze later tonight, but that was easy enough.

No problem
 

My Troy-built 3 stage 28" snowblower handled this mess in Alton. About 2 1/2 inches of mainly sleet and a mix. It even handled the mess the plow threw across the end of our driveway, which is at least 6 car widths across. I went out right after the plow went by and before it had a chance to freeze solid. I just did half width passes.

Dave

Self-Reliance and Survival...
 

We might have taken the same kind of high school courses in wood- and metal-shop. Shop classes indirectly teach self-reliance.

At one time, a smaller Wolfeboro population supported three hardware stores: Bradley's, Wolfeboro Hardware, and Gene's.

Self-reliance isn't so important today--but it should be.

If removal of the rim(s) proved impossible, I would have bought two new $4 tires, and bonded everything together at the rim(s).
:idea:

ETA: The second tire arrived yesterday.

Greenworks, while slower than I'd like, did follow through.

Snowblower trouble
 

Everything today is "throw it away", "plug n' play", "order a new one and get it next day".

Is too soon to really say how long last'n the Slime for tubes, $6.42 8-oz small bottle of bright green slime will go but so far the tire is very good to go. Green Slime easy fix verses haul'n the snowblower to that nice blonde lady at the Small Engine Barn in Plymouth and probably shell'n out $89.95-basic tune-up plus another unknown amount on the flat tire that's rusted stuck onto the axle. Anything to do with good look'n woman always ends up being expensive.

Now's all I got to do is solve the fuel, carburetor, frozen line(?) problemo which gives me something to do today.

Yesterday's snow was way too heavy for the 26" SnoBoss, so's I used a more normal snow shovel ...... SnoBoss calls in sick when the snow is too heavy.

https://www.iheart.com/content/2021-...putation-risk/


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No chance of amputation if it doesn't run. FLL's snow blowers are just lawn ornaments.:D

... not so good without the thumb!
 

Hey ..... another great reason to go with the SnoBoss ....... heart attack-yes ..... but a finger or thumb amputation-no way ..... plus is easier to start!

Snowblower augers are driven by a rubber v-belt so it's possible for it to still be energized, like with a rubber band, even with the engine turned off.

But doctor doctor ...... the machine was totally turned off ..... plus the snowblower ate my insurance card from Anthem Blue Cross at the same time? .... :D

Doctor; "now that's a very serious problem!" ..... :laugh: