Car Dealer 'Admin' fees' ?
 

I've been looking at car dealers on-line for a good used car.
I've seen a few dealers, including Grappone in Concord, that are charging
an 'Admin Fee'. Not singing out Grappone, as I notice others are doing also.

On the car I was interested there was a &550 Admin applied.
WTH is the Admin fee ? Is this just an 'up charge' the dealers are charging
because the can ! Is this a common charge among dealers ?

Thanks for you responses !

Is that what they are calling a documentation fee?

Absolutely, just the latest baloney. I've heard the used car market is easing up a bit. You may have a bit more luck in a few weeks

From a Toyota dealership in Keene, NH: $372-documentation fee; http://www.toyotakeene.com/administr...ation-fees.htm

If you buy a used car from a private seller you will totally avoid a documentation fee.

Doc fees range... with the NH average being listed as $432 last September.
I don't have access to anything more current.

It's been a long time, but I recall buying a used car for a specific price, no trade-in. When we got to the contract, it was my price, plus a fee that was pre-printed on the contract. Salesman said they were obligated to charge that, which is why it was pre-printed. It wasn't big, but it was the principle, so I started to walk. They decided to adjust the numbers so the bottom line was the agreed upon price.
I think car dealers are developing better reputations and practices now that they compete with online buyers and sellers.

I had the exact same thing happen when I bought a used car for my daughter years ago. It ended the same way and they sold the car for the agreed upon amount. I have found the best negotiation strategy at a car dealer is sometimes to walk towards the door.

18 months ago I bought a new car from MacMulkin Chevrolet in Nashua. MSRP and no added fees. Four other dealers I talked to first had a significant markup for the same car. Cantin Chevrolet in Laconia wouldn't sell it without significant up charges for dealer fees, finish protector, locking lug nuts Etc.

I think most of these fees are just to add to the dealers bottom line.

Buying a car.
 

On my last purchase, I did my homework online and find the dealer's cost of a vehicle. With that in mind, I walked into a dealership, waited 3/4 hour for a sales tech, and said, I have X amount of money in hand. I want to walk out with the said vehicle. 9 out of 10 times they will say it can't be done. After talking to the sales manager and others, sometimes they will negotiate. You may not get what you want in terms of color, or accessories, but you will get a set of keys. They know you will go elsewhere!
Since I negotiated for a basic model without accessories, I ended up with an upgrade with accessories on the lot for the same price as the basic model! You can search dealers' inventory for a similar vehicle in your mind and go get that vehicle! Sometimes they will ship a vehicle from another dealer.
Just do your homework and play the waiting game in the showroom. Time well spent!

A Consumer Reports article I read once said you should refuse to pay these document etc. fees. I tried that with my last purchase and got nowhere. The fee was $550 as I recall. The dealer wouldn't budge. You only have power to influence the dealer if you really do have other options for buying a car. I did not have other options. Below are the notes I took from various online sources at the time.

_________________________

Dealer documentation fees (also known as doc fees), cover a dealer's administrative costs related to title, registration, and other paperwork involved with the car purchase.Doc fees range from $0 to nearly $1,000 depending on which dealer and state you purchase from. Some states such as California limit the maximum amount a dealer can charge for this fee, but most have no limits.

You cannot negotiate a dealer's doc fee because they are required by law to charge the same amount to every customer. You can, however, ask them to reduce the price of the vehicle to compensate for a high doc fee. [Other source says “some” states require dealers to charge the same fee to everyone.]

New Hampshire, 2014: New Hampshire defines “documentary fees” as those used to process vehicle titles and other paperwork with the state, and they’re capped at $27, according to the New Hampshire Automobile Dealers Association. Dealers can charge administrative fees to cover their own processing costs, however, and those are not capped.

Concord Monitor 2017: “The average doc fee in New Hampshire was $304 in 2011 and has risen since then, with some dealers charging as much as $495. New Hampshire has a state-mandated cap of $27 on state document fees but dealers are allowed to charge additional “administrative fees” to cover their own processing costs.”

2019 average in NH: $372 https://www.autocheatsheet.com/new-c...d-you-pay.html

I emailed Irwin Ford about a new Super Duty last month and they are adding $7500 to MSRP and I’m sure they have silly fees on top of that as well. Needless to say I passed on that great offer from them.

Market Adjustment
 

We spend most of our time in AZ now but I still read the Forum every day! We have been trying to buy a new Corvette in AZ (and were very close to flying to MacMulkin to do the deal) because in most AZ dealers there is a “market adjustment” of anywhere from $10,000 to $25,000 with very little movement and a wait of 12-18 months! Hoping this trend doesn’t reach NH!

I bought mine at MacMulkin and waited about 18 months. I placed the order over the phone, you don't need to fly there. MSRP and no dealer fee. Because it was built in November it was shipped directly from the factory in Bowling Green, KY to Florida and I did a courtesy delivery in Florida for $750. If it came in during the summer I would have picked it up at MacMulkin.

Great process and a lot better than dealing with "Market Adjustments". One Florida dealer I called told me they had a waiting list to be on the waiting list. Uh...No.

Nashua Dealers
 

I don't know why, but they do a great job of cutting other dealers' throats. McMulkin has always, since the '70s, been the Corvette capital in NE. Many Corvette owners buy from them.

I once wanted the last Impala SS made. (2012). It was a Holden product, like the Pontiac G8. They were the last real muscle cars ever sold by GM in the US. Talking to dealers, they don't want to even bother finding one for me. Talked to McMulkin and they were able to find a GM executive willing to sell me his! Talk about dedication!

Allen Mello, down the street, is another gem! I wanted a one-ton Dakota truck, which dealers say never exists! The special order from the factory is exactly what I want! I still have the window sticker showing the 1 ton package!

Same with Tulley's. My daughter wanted a Maxda6 GT. They didn't have one but sold her the Mazda6 GT hatchback with all the bells and whistles for the same amount as the basic model!

Check them out. I like to support local businesses, but if you can save thousands, is there a choice???

What was the registration process like? I assume you registered in NH to avoid sales tax. Inspection sticker? I recall there is 10 days grace when the car first comes into the state. Still correct?

Usually they will throw in the first inspection sticker when you purchase.

MacMulkin gave me the Certificate of Origin prior to the arrival of the car. I registered it at Gilford Town Hall. I had plates with me when I went to the Florida dealer to pick it up, although the dealer would have given me a temporary plate. I got an inspection sticker last spring when I had it shipped to New Hampshire. You can get a 10 day waiver from DMV if you are bringing a car back. I didn't bother. Hey, it's not a felony!

The entire staff in the Clerk's office and especially Danielle, the Clerk, could not be more helpful every time I go in for anything. I am very impressed with how responsive they are to anything you ask.

Beautiful car. Thanks for the pic. What's the significance of "C8"? I don't own a car but my wife is "1118". Recall, she's the one that owns the house too. The trade off is that my boat is a 1999 Apreamare and the bow number is NH1999AM.

Corvettes, starting in 1953 had a "C" designation that was changed with each significant style change. For example: The 2014 through 2019 Corvette is the "C7"

When the mid engine corvette was introduced in 2020 it became the "C8". It is obviously significantly different than previous Corvettes just because of the mid engine and by necessity for things like cooling the style had to be a lot different.

I bought it because it's an economy car. 29 MPG on the highway! :) (No need to mention 0 to 60 in 2.8 seconds, that is just a bonus)

Hhs
 

There was a guy from Tilton NH named Herbert Shaw. He used to trade his Corvette in for the latest year as soon as they hit the showroom! His license plate was HHS. Is he still around? He went to Belknap College.

Car purchase "administrative fees" are nothing but additional profits for the car dealership.

Additionally, one has to question a $500 admin. fee for a vehicle. That is a half weeks pay for some folks. Does it take 20 hours to do the paperwork?

Those admin. fees are actually built into the asking price, so paying an additional charge does nothing but line someones pocket.

DMV site search
 

A search on the DMV site shows that a standard passenger car plate with "HHS" is available, but that is also not a guarantee.

Dave

No one can say that you are not helping to look out for our planet
That's almost as economical as a Prius.....:;)

What color is it? Is it black? And, does Chevy make a new Corvette with a stick-shift and a clutch pedal, and can it get a trailer hitch for towing leafs, brush and old snowblowers to the local town transfer station like my Subaru?

Shadow Gray Metallic. I am very happy with the color but only 5.6% of buyers ordered it and they only offered it in 2020.

No stick, and I doubt they will. The logistics with the mid engine make it difficult. Only 26% of buyers wanted manuals in 2019 so they discontinued it, at least for now.

I think most Corvette owners have another vehicle to go to the dump.

But if you really wanted to tow a trailer:

How's about a slot for a cd-disc music ike my Subaru has ....... betcha it ain't got no cd-disk player in that there Corvette of your's?

Manual transmission will go the way of the Dodo...
Drive-by wire allows them to offer so much more.

Just yesterday I removed the old Belknap Subaru sticker next to the tail light and pressed on a round bumper sticker with a 5-speed shift pattern surrounded by two words; "Endangered Species." ..... :D

This 2014 5-speed Subaru is going the distance ....... to 225,000-miles and more! New World Auto in Plymouth is where it is going for brakes and everything else ..... but so far, driving from 96k to 113-k, it has needed nothing except Castrol Edge oil & the cheapest Fram oil filter changes at Walmart for $46.44 plus tire rotation-ten dollars and a new trailer hitch & tail lights, connector hook-up that actually works at New World Auto for $525. ..... :laugh:

You know the mechanic at Walmart who did the last oil change actually put his initials on the el cheapo Fram oil filter with red plasti dip ..... how about that! He signed his work.

First gear is very slow starting from a stop light, so's I usually start it off in 2nd gear. Try doing that with an automatic! This Subaru has 200-hp with a horizontally opposed 4-cylinder engine and weighs 3000-lbs so it's a wee bit slow, or something.

So..............We know you can afford a nice new car. (Several, in fact)

Why the obsession with driving old high mileage manual transmission clunkers with maintenance issues? Something to keep you busy?

Still have your Class B CDL? There is a nationwide shortage of over 100,000 CDL licensed drivers. Get back in the game! Find the right local company (that didn't buy the sissy trucks with automatic transmissions) and you can shift all day long and make a little money at it!

Drive by wire.
 

After I purchase the 'drive-by wire', Audi Allroad, handling and response became totally unpredictable compared to my '69 Dodge Dart GTS. I prefer to drive around in the GTS and 2005 Mercedes instead of the Allroad. I bought the allroad before used cars started to appreciate. Made an 11K profit! The GTS and the Mercedes 'longroof' have standard shift! The allroad was a paddle shifter which was totally useless. The 7-speed auto has been shifting around like crazy trying to find a 'sweet spot'. So much for 'drive-by wire'.

Long live standard longroofs!

I would feel totally ridiculous driving a new car which automatically comes with a new 'perfection' paint job ..... plus, a new car really should be garaged under a roof and out of the weather.

NH is basically a Subaru Village, and driving Subaru just blends with central NH. Subaru's looks make it look like it was designed by the Boy Scouts and Girl Scouts of America, or something.

Isn't Drive by Wire just throttle control?

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-drive-by-wire-534825

Transmission, Steering, and brakes as well as throttle are controlled electronically. I can imagine how dangerous EVs can be along with batteries that burn forever!

I have shiftronic... so I can designate any of the six gear speeds that I want to be in.
I can even have the programming change for the specifics as to those setting, also change my steering and braking response.

Guess we are lucky that there were maybe 15 + responses out of 30+ to the ORIGINAL topic of this thread....an interesting and informative thread I might add... before a number of folks ventured off topic to chat about stick shifts, fancy cars, etc. Since I am buying a new car in the next couple of months, the data was very helpful on the original topic. I don't want to be disrespectful or rain on someone's parade, but this off topic chatter seems to happen a lot. If there is the urge to talk about something else, then by all means start a new thread. Don't shoot the messenger !!

Yeah... we do that a lot.
Doc fees will happen regardless of the type of vehicle.
I guess the best that you could do is try to negotiate them into the bottom line price.

I still say that in this market, negotiating anything will only work if you have other options and the dealer really wants the sale then and there.